|
|
Post by hankwilliams on Dec 15, 2022 17:06:32 GMT -6
Any one get a quote from OLYMPIC builders for a pole shed . Interesting idea is 3d printed material may be an option in the near future. I heard because of labour shortage , robotic printers will be used.
|
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Dec 15, 2022 18:42:55 GMT -6
Are you senior or junior?
|
|
|
|
Post by Oatking on Dec 23, 2022 8:16:38 GMT -6
Well I checked into getting insurance for a canvas building and it is pretty poor. Costs 1 dollar for every 100 dollars the building is worth and the canvas depreciates 20 percent a year. Its too bad they view it too be too risky of a structure.
I guess I will go back to the pole style wood hay shelter structure.
|
|
|
|
Post by kenmb on Apr 29, 2023 9:00:02 GMT -6
Checked some prices on a building
Winkler Canvas 50 x 84 with 24w x 16 canvas door in each end and concrete block footings would be about $70,000. I didn't get firm pricing on the blocks, just a guesstimate.
Post frame building 54 x 100 x 18 with 40 x 17 bifold and 24 x 18 slider is around $125,000 set up.
I can make more use of the shed if it had the bigger door so in the big picture the post frame doesn't cost too much more. Combine is parked under a roof almost every night of harvest so being able to run it inside with header on vs header sticking out doorway is the thinking. Also may be able to get the drill inside for the winter so 17' door height would allow that. I could look at a bigger canvas shed to see how much of a bigger door possible but that narrows the price gap more.
|
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Apr 29, 2023 12:12:01 GMT -6
I can’t see the wider canvas door costing much more, but in this day and age, I could be wrong. I think the pole shed would be the better option of the two, it could be insulated and heated later on if that was ever something you would want. I remember it seemed like a tough pill to swallow when we built our insulated work shop, but it’s easily paid for itself 10 times over, then it seemed like a lot when we built our storage shed, but now wishing we had another one. Even with the high costs of shops, I think they would easily pay for themselves just in protecting the tires alone on the equipment.
|
|
|
|
Post by kenmb on Apr 29, 2023 12:48:39 GMT -6
Oatking priced out a canvas building with bifold door earlier in thread, that is the only way to get a bigger opening - leave the one end open then custom build end wall.
Yes, keeping the sun off all things rubber and electrical is the goal. And rain/snow off the bearings, electrical connections and such. It would also be nice to not let equipment get to below 0c in winter but that gets costly also. Aged O-ring and gaskets are more likely to start leaking if equipment goes from -40 to +40 than 0 to +40.
If a guy trades off every 4 to 6 years there isn't much need for storage but older equipment will stay in much better and therefore useable condition if it is inside.
|
|
|
|
Post by Oatking on Apr 29, 2023 15:36:53 GMT -6
The latest estimate I got last week is for a post frame 60 by 120 by 18 with a 40 by 17 bi fold door and a 24 16 overhead, 150 000 with taxes.
I probably will pull the trigger on this one as the canvas building was only 10 feet longer and had no front door for 125 000. The canvas buildings I have looked at do have some advantages as brighter inside and can put in a higher door.
I cant get good enough insurance for a canvas building so that is ultimately why I ruled it out!
How deep should the posts go down ? My estimate is for 8 feet. That seems shallow. I was advised to get the ground inspected to make sure the clay soil didn’t shift since it is a newly built pad. If a guy ran a d8 dozer over the soil pad , should that pack the ground enough. Life is too short to wait years for the ground to settle by itself!
|
|
|
|
Post by OptimallyDismal on Apr 29, 2023 16:38:37 GMT -6
Depending on the track width it would be surprising how low the ground pressure of your D8 is!
|
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Apr 29, 2023 16:41:17 GMT -6
A D8 will pack very little. We drove our tandem back and forth on the pads to pack it as much as we could.
|
|
|
|
Post by northernfarmer on Apr 29, 2023 19:11:45 GMT -6
A D8 will pack very little. We drove our tandem back and forth on the pads to pack it as much as we could. A cat just chews up the surface and doesn't pack properly. I've done the same thing on various pads, bin pads etc and a shed that we hauled away the soil with a scraper and then hauled in clay to replace and built up from the surrounding ground and packed the crap out of it with many back and forths of a loaded tandem, lowest gear and lots of mirror time. When the company came to put up the pole shed they were impressed with how firm the walls of the holes they drilled were. I don't think they went even hardly 4 feet down, that seems to be the theme with at least some companies so that's something one would have to look into and plan for long enough laminated posts to get the height wanted. These were solid treated 6x6 but that would get very expensive these days and probably not long enough either to be putting very far down into the ground. The only problem with the job they did was that they promised they would of course tamp in the clay, they did no such thing as the back shovelled the clay in and then had a rain and the clay sunk a foot around the posts and by then the building was built ( cold storage shed with clay floor ... unfortunately ) . If at all possible put gravel in a shed.
|
|
|
|
Post by meskie on Apr 29, 2023 19:22:40 GMT -6
A D8 will pack a lot of you only put a lift in as deep and the cleats. If you got 1.5” cleats you only put 1.5-2” of material on before you pack. The vibration of the steel tracks also help compact the clay. Put 2-3’ of clay then trying to pack with anything won’t work well.
If you’re worried about how deep they put the posts get screw piles put in to how ever deep you need till they are at the proper torque. Could be 4’ could be 12’.
|
|
|
|
Post by northernfarmer on Apr 29, 2023 22:00:44 GMT -6
Meskie is right that to get the best job, the clay is laid out in not too thick a layers and packed and the moisture content has quite a bearing on how well it packs. This is the type of project where it would be nice to have a self propelled sheeps foot packer and grader etc to level the layers and pack the crap out of them and of course final grades with a transit and someone skilled with whatever dirt moving equipment to level it, then add gravel if desired in layers and do the same thing.
|
|
|
|
Post by kenmb on May 1, 2023 9:38:58 GMT -6
Will probably look at a 44' bifold if it comes to finalizing details. 40 ft header would be ok then.
Discussions I had with 2 post frame packages is posts at 4 foot spacing (under each truss) and six feet down. Have an old barn to tear down first before moving forward on any new structure in its place so no further planning right now.
Have used a loaded tandem truck for packing but think the 11 yard scraper loaded does it better yet.
|
|
|
|
Post by kenmb on Jul 20, 2023 8:02:37 GMT -6
Getting close to going ahead with a building. 100 x 56 x18' post frame is what I have priced right now. Should be around $100,000 completed with doors but still working with estimates. Tossed the coverall option because getting good sized doors in the ends narrows the gap in cost.
Thinking 44' bifold and 28' sliders in the ends. 2 man doors with windows and probably 2 other windows. Tossed the idea of translucent panels for additional light and just have windows. 44' bifold should be ok for 36' combine header, probably need 48' door for a 40' header and at the point I think I draw the line and would go a 36' bifold and say the header comes off when combine goes in.
Is more windows of any use? Going to have lights in there anyway. Any issue with bigger sliders? The 20 x14'h on old shed work just fine but a 28 x 18' door opening is significantly bigger but functionally no different unless poorly done is how I see it.
|
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Jul 20, 2023 8:18:28 GMT -6
Nice! I don’t think you’ll regret building it. Don’t have much for input, but in regards to the windows, I wish we had put more in our work shop, the extra light coming in from the side would be nice and being able to look out the windows to see what is making the noise outside or who pulled into the yard, and also to make it feel bigger inside, could just be me but I hate being inside so like to see out. In our cold storage shop we put a couple on the west wall, wish now we hadn’t put them there and had put them closer to the walk in door on the north east corner. The sun shining through them on the west end faded the hood on my brothers skidoo sitting in there one summer.
|
|
