Random questions on the 740

Your chain guesses are all correct. Only thing with unloading chain is the oring chain lasts a lot longer. Also make sure you time your unload cross augers. Dealers say you don’t have to but service manual says to and we got 3 times more life out of that chain by timing the augers.
Clean grain chain you can use regular 60 if you want but we always use heavy chain.

Parts Doc is a gong show. I haven’t been able to get into it since they changed it.

I have no experience with the turbo chop but if you keep your knifes from getting too bad a rounded edge on them it solves 95% of chopper bridging problems.

Keep the chopper blades sharp, especially when getting into light canola straw. My previous 780 got the updated chopper panel which I believe just changed the angle of drop above the blades there may be evidence on the paint that something was different there at one time?

80H chain works for the unload I believe, but who wants to oil chains all the time. Interesting about the timing thing, will have to check mine.

On the turbo-chop making sure the paddles are rotated side to side so they aren't back-swept gives a better spread, and tilting the tailboard lower actually spreads wider. Those paddles tend to get a curve in them over time.

I will see how a regular chain lasts for the unload, I handle a lot less bushels per year. Will put a standard 60 chain on clean grain, chain strength maybe more of a concern on a 780 in corn but less issue on a 740 doing 35 bu/ac peas.

Sales guy noted that chopper spread increases with tilting panel down more so will watch that. Knives wore about 1/4" off tips so will run them in peas then flip for rest of season.

Meskie, where did you get the service manual, order from dealer or is it accessible as free access through this Claas Connect system? I haven't looked into a service manual yet as first job is I need access to parts manual.

I came across something that looks like a 5600 page service manual, electronic only as a guy would expect. Will look into what it takes to get one, not that I am going to do any major repair work but nice to be with vs without one if they are not too painful to get.

The unloading augers on my unit had the key ways of the 3 augers all pointing down at the 6 o'clock position when I took off old chain so put together that same way. If they are to be timed I am guessing that should do it.

8 hours sitting on top with air hose and piece of wire cleaning rad. Dynamic cooling may work well but it seems a guy still needs to do a proper cleaning more than once every 10 years.

One thing bugging me, clean grain elevator vibrates. There is a light mounted on a bracket attached to elevator at the bottom pointing to rear tire and it moves back and forth a 1/2" when running at idle. Had roller chain off bubble up auger drive, took v-belt off elevator drive and turned by hand. Nothing catching, but doesn't turn smooth, each time a link for paddle attachment engages sprocket it takes noticeably more effort to turn, then turns more free for another 4 inches or so of rotation. Sprockets look fine, not hooked, can see the wear point in tooth bottom and looks good. Can't find in operators manual how to assess chain wear. Hydraulic tensioner. 1150 threshing hrs. One full size connector link in chain.

Maybe it's normal for the elevator housing to vibrate?

Last thing, came across a chart for types of molybdenum grease reading through manuals, can't find it now. The variable drive sheaves say daily greasing and a guy should probably pay attention to what is used. I will talk with Claas and make sure I get something suitable, any better advice on what to use there.

No it's not normal for it to vibrate, maybe a loose paddle or the baffle in the middle is loose? Another possible cause could be the inside of the bubble up auger could be dirty. Take the linkage off the bubble up auger while the hopper is open, then pivot it down to lower it and look inside the intake of the bubble up auger to see if it's built up with junk, if it is that will put a huge strain on the system.

I just have a dedicated grease gun with EP2/3 or whatever the latest Claas grease is for the combines.

On my 780's with dynamic cooling I can't ever remember having to clean them more than once a season, but the clean sweep or whatever it's called that was prior to dynamic cooling on my current machines we have to blow out daily if conditions are bad. Possible factor there could be I often ran solo with the 780's but now have two machines in the same field which is dirtier. The dynamic cooling is very nice.

If you have a link to the service manual please post it.

What APS grates should a guy have? First thing is peas to do, the smooth grates look kind of small slots and I would think the square bar would be more aggressive then needed. These are the two that came with the combine.

There's a new Sunnybrook concave with the stock Claas cylinder. Will be doing peas, HRSW, swathed mustard and swathed flax this year.

Think I should be buying some kind of APS grates, maybe the round bar for peas, or smooth and wide slot for peas. The square bars are getting rounded so maybe need replacing sometime too. I would think I would run those rest of season after peas are done but kind of a wide slot so maybe there's something better. Or use smooth and let the Sunnybrook concave do all the work.

It seems the basic principle of the APS is pre threshing vs pre seperation, is that how a guy approaches it? You choose an aps grate more so on loosening the grain from the plant vs removing the grain from path into the cylinder. Peas are perhaps the exception where the aim is to get some peas into the cleaning system rather than have them all pass through the cylinder.

The round bar seems to make most sense for peas, get some thresh action plus good space to get peas out of the crop mat. I suppose I will use the square bar this year and get an idea of what I am doing before buying something else.

I will measure the concave clearance, been checking a number of things per manual but nothing internal yet.