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Post by kenmb on Aug 11, 2024 7:22:53 GMT -6
I picked up a def barrel hand pump the other day, see how that goes. Meskie mentioned a 12v pump and that reminds me I have a 120v garden hose fitting water pump laying around, could have rigged that up with a switch in the power cord and sit on top of combine to fill and shut off with switch in hand.
Put camera on back at top to look down on chopper spread to keep on eye on chopper plugging, will see how that pans out with dust. Another on backside of hopper extension to see level.
Still more re-reading to do in manual. Will have questions unplugging combine, need to re-read some info first. Manual has some info, and have found other stuff. 90% of my plugs are in peas so would be good to know what experience says is typical methods before I am plugged in field. My peas have lots of Canada thistle this year (a new personal record I beleive on one quarter), sprayed glyphosate on Monday so waiting for dry down.
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Post by meskie on Aug 11, 2024 8:36:18 GMT -6
There are a few different tricks to unplug it depending where it’s plugged. The aps and cylinder are far easier to unplug than the impeller. That’s why running tighter concave clearance is a good thing. Only thing we ever plugged our chopper in was green canola straw on our 2014. The 17’ 780 with the updated chopper door doesn’t give much trouble at all. The 670 has to go slower and never plugged it last year at all.
Your 740 likely will run out of power and you won’t be pushing the green straw through like on the high horsepower machines saving the chopper from plugging.
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Post by SWMan on Aug 11, 2024 15:50:55 GMT -6
Not sure if you have the auto feeder house shutdown feature, but in peas most of the plugs will be at the front or under the APS. So it's a reverse the feeder house and widen concave to 50MM(takes seconds to do unlike other brands) then re-start the thresher and it should push through. If you are like me doing seed peas and getting a bit rammy with a very slow cylinder the APS belt will be well used after a few hundred acres and more prone to slipping...ha ha. I usually overtighten the APSbelt and like Meskie said tight clearance. If you plug at 30MM you have no options... Now running in unsprayed wheat late at night going through a kochia patch or green oats or wet swath lumps might get the plug further back at higher cyl/rotor speeds. Then it requires a bit of creativity but usually this scenario happens about 5 hours after a rotary combine is parked or on a day that they aren't even moving. Commonly referred to as "Claas hours".  |
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Post by meskie on Aug 11, 2024 19:02:32 GMT -6
Keep a spare APS and impeller belt with you
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Post by kenmb on Aug 12, 2024 7:43:51 GMT -6
Don't have spare belts so I will get those, seen that mentioned before. So unplugging aps means open stone trap and pull material out, can a guy bar it backwards like the info in attached photos? Or hook a small come a long to a paddle and pull it back? The info also says to remove bolts on gearbox, sound like a nice idea in theory but it does not look easy to get bolts out if holes in pulley don't line up, and a plugged unit means I won't be turning anything to line up. Claas manual says to loosen belts, have to read it again to be sure which ones. You guys ever spread that variable speed pulley for the threshing drive to loosen belt off and basically disengage the threshing mech to clean out rest of combine first? Looks like 3 threaded rod can be used to spread pulley. Don't know if machine has the auto shutoff feature, don't see anything specific about it so wondering about that. Don't see a disc brake kind of arrangement on feeder house, but don't know what exactly I am looking for. I see the belt slip settings in cebis, but didn't see something that resembles auto shutoff. Is it maybe a standard feature. Didn't notice any mention in operating manual.
The old claas units used to plug chopper often enough so still memories of that, likely because the knives were pretty wore at the time though.
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Post by meskie on Aug 12, 2024 7:58:04 GMT -6
Removing the bolts in the drive does the same thing as loosing the variable speed belt and 4x as fast. Have use a bar to back the APS up before but only a couple times. Generally dropping the concave and cleaning out the stone trap and a bit under the aps is enough to get it going.
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Post by kenmb on Aug 18, 2024 21:29:45 GMT -6
What is normal operating temp? Wants to run around 196-199 when working. Cools down to 176 by the time I have a hopper unloaded parked at truck at idle. Cooling fan seems like it is wound up when temp is high so think everything is working ok and this is normal. Doing peas so about 60% average engine load when temp is up. Everything looks to be operating the way it should but I would be happier seekng 185f.
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Post by SWMan on Aug 18, 2024 21:48:23 GMT -6
It will go into alarm mode if it gets too hot, you won't not be able to not notice the alarms....ha ha
I think my non dynamic cooling machines run up around there, can't remember what my dynamic cooling 780's used to run at but they were Mercedes anyway.
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Post by kenmb on Aug 19, 2024 11:18:29 GMT -6
Claas guy says 195f they try to regulate at so seems I am in the expected area.
Took a load of peas to elevator and they took their usual 1% dockage and nothing more, no line item for splits so not having any difficulty getting combine to do a proper job.
Did plug the cylinder once. No warning of impending trouble, just the red alarm panel and then smoke rolling past the window to confirm it wasn't a false alarm. Rock trap kind of a bugger to open up in such a case, cleaned that area out, opened concave and started up no problem. Don't know if there is any out stop feature, I slapped off the header and threshing mech pretty quick, no time to observe if it had shutoff by itself already.
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Post by victory on Aug 19, 2024 11:51:46 GMT -6
Not sure how the newer Claas machines are, but if the older ones had a smoked belt they would vibrate and take out idler pulleys. Hopefully you caught it in time. If I smoke a belt on mine I usually just replace it.
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Post by meskie on Aug 19, 2024 12:23:17 GMT -6
Belt doesn’t last very long after it’s been smoked enough to see it from the cab we found.
We always run our aps belt tighter than spec.
If you run the feeder reverser for a few seconds it seems to take some pressure off the rock trap and is a bit easier to open.
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Post by SWMan on Aug 19, 2024 21:48:37 GMT -6
There is settings in the cebis to adjust the sensitivity of the auto-stop on the feeder or even turn it off. If you have that feature it may be turned off, I often would turn mine off on the 780 to avoid random stoppages if I was really pushing it.
I always ran my APS belt with the tensioner bottomed out and then a little extra. Usually ends eventually in a snapped belt, but they are cheap(inexpensive).
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Post by kenmb on Aug 20, 2024 7:09:31 GMT -6
No auto shut off for feeder as far as we can tell, was talking with a claas guy yesterday and went through the menus and it wasn't there unless there is something I am missing. No mention of it in the manual either. There are the belt slip settings and such under the combine icon but no setting/menu item to enable auto shut off. Maybe it is built in and always active, this is an item that still puzzles me as to how I figure out how this combine is supposed to operate. The manual is terribly lacking on explaining how things are supposed to operate. Half the manual is warnings and cautions and saying what buttons to push, hardly any explanation on the theory. Still trying to figure auto reel control, think my reel speed sensor is flaky on the honeybee but manual does not even say what "offset" is or how/purpose of "actual" speed sensing is used. Will look again, I must keep missing those details. Right now I am guessing on how I think it is supposed to work and go from there.
I never did look close at the belt after, seems to run as usual but I suppose should give it some attention.
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Post by meskie on Aug 20, 2024 7:29:04 GMT -6
The auto shut off menu is easy to find if you had it. 2016 maybe 2017 or newer is when the option came for it. I’ve never used auto reel speed on a combine or swather. So can’t help you there.
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Post by kenmb on Aug 21, 2024 10:13:34 GMT -6
Claas guy says around 2016 to 2017 that auto stop feature came out. Think I solved the auto reel speed, there was a pin pushed back in the connector of reel speed sensor cable that plugs into the header multicoupler. Sometimes the menu allowed the function to be active, sometimes not. Didn't know if it was how I was operating it, or the combine sensing or what. Hopefully last bug worked out.
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