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Post by kenmb on Apr 26, 2024 19:38:34 GMT -6
Fresh oil change on my Cummins qsx15 and I still have some oil leaking down from around the base. Rechecked the old filter and the gaskets are on it so pretty sure I didn't miss anything. I ran a rag around the filter base when I had the old filter off and before putting new one on and things seemed fine. Put clean oil on gaskets before installing. Did all the usual stuff as always. Tightened by hand as much as I could on initial install which usually get me that 1/2 to 3/4 turn. It was noticeably leaking when I first ran engine so used filter wrench to give it another 1/3 turn. See I still have some oil coming down side of filter, much less but easy to see.
Anyone have issues like this before? Do I take it off and check the gaskets and try a reinstall or is it likely the gasket is damaged some how. Or is it something with the filter? This one is I got at Case, Case brand. My concern is if I take it off and a gasket is trashed then I am off to the city to get a new filter before I can move the tractor. I can take the gasket off the old filter and reinstall but maybe that's not the issue. Never had a filter leak before so don't know what to expect. Right now I would worry it may get real bad when in field so putting a new one on would be peace of mind.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Apr 26, 2024 19:52:31 GMT -6
For sure you know you won't be able to sleep tonight if you don't take it off to check it, and you will be second guessing yourself, so you will bite the bullet and do the inspection.
Best case you can reinstall it and it is ok.
Otherwise you will let us know why it is leaking, faulty filter, cracked base, faulty gasket, wrong filter, gasket from 2 changes ago still on, loose base...
If the filter is faulty they should replace it as warranty.
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Post by generalchaos on Apr 26, 2024 20:04:06 GMT -6
When I had my JD 9600 I changed engine oil filter with an authentic JD filter. I noticed a few days later that it was covered in oil and dirt. I wiped it clean thinking the seal was the problem. Next day it was dirty again but not dirty around the seal. After more intense scrutiny I found a crack in the side of the filter. Of course JD wouldn’t pay for a new filter until they sent this one away. But word came back that it was defective. What if it would’ve burst in the middle of harvest? Glad I caught it early.
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Post by Oatking on Apr 26, 2024 20:46:09 GMT -6
Lots of times I have had filters with defects . Dents , cracks and pin holes ! I wonder if the pin hole was from packing and a staple went thru it .
McDon filters were poor quality .
Problems with Baldwin and wicks as well.
So far fleet guard has been good luck .
You don’t think you doubled up the gasket ?
Probably not but I have done that before by mistake !
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Post by northernfarmer on Apr 26, 2024 20:54:27 GMT -6
I have had a rare instance of gasket issues or at least getting the darned thing installed without damaging the gasket, yes the 9600 is one of those locations as its balancing the gasket on the rim of the filter and trying to get the gasket to seat up in its grove and not pinch the gasket in the process ( just a bad design ) , or the old filter housings that use a filter element and again the gasket slipping out of place as the housing gets pressed into place, sure had oil flying out of the old massey 65 more than once over the years upon startup because of that. However knock on wood I have never had a leaking filter where the filter contains the gasket properly and the filter mounting head on the engine has the flat surface. I tend to be one that either is going by info on the filter to turn the +1 etc or whatever it calls for and typically need a filter wrench to accomplish that or if not I am snugging it up with a filter wrench as I don't trust just doing it by hand if I can't get my hands on it properly.
I have to wonder if there is a problem with the gasket itself, if it never went out of position, that it has a defect in it perhaps. While I rather doubt the filter head is warped as per the factory stamping, I guess never say never. I also have to wonder if there is any chance that the filters tin housing crimp to the filter head is sound or if there is an issue. If that was the case I assume it could appear as though its coming from the gasket when its leaking from the top edge of the crimp and falling over the top edge of the filter. Was the old filter clean as in not all messed up as though it had been seeping ?. Also the assumption is this is the right filter, it fits the threads anyway. Don't suppose you have some neighbours running a similar unit that stock filters !.
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Post by meskie on Apr 26, 2024 21:04:09 GMT -6
Once the engine is warmed up tighten it by hand as much as you can. That has always stopped the leak on any Cummins we have had. Also had the seal not seated properly in on part of the filter and it leaked a bit.
It is actual oil leaking out not just oil running off from the top of the filter outside the seal?
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Post by kevlar on Apr 26, 2024 21:43:36 GMT -6
The only time I’ve seen a filter leak was a gasket was stuck on from the old filter and the new filter put on over it, and one time a shop had put a filter on with no gasket at all. Neither done by me by the way 😉
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Post by bob123 on Apr 27, 2024 8:14:10 GMT -6
I had something similar happen. Did a fresh oil change on a combine I was selling and used new holland filters. They trickled oil and made a mess of the machine, turned out the crimp connecting the base and the body leaked and I had only hand tightened. I had to use a hammer and punch to get them off because the crimp completely let going trying to reverse it.
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Post by kenmb on Apr 27, 2024 8:30:29 GMT -6
I think I will replace it. If some one in Regina has stock I will grab a Fleetgard or Wix. Fort Garry probably has something like Fleetgard or Baldwin.
I am fairly certain extra gasket not the case. With these larger filters (ie not automotive), I can always look down the center and see the construction, this Case filter has what looks like a drain back valve, some kind of disc blocking view in the center of filter. Not to sure about that design since I have never seen anything like that before on my units.
Dont think I will sleep well at this point if I keep tightening till leak goes away, it's fairly tight already. If I am taking it off to look, then I am putting new one on.
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Post by northernfarmer on Apr 27, 2024 9:21:03 GMT -6
At this point its an unknown what is wrong, the filter housing itself or the gasket but when you said going somewhere else and getting a different brand, that got me thinking about what if a batch of Case IH branded filters had a manufacturing defect ... would not want to buy another from the same batch at the same dealer. But anyway a Fleetguard would be my personal first choice as long as its not insanely priced above others.
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Post by Oatking on Apr 27, 2024 11:03:37 GMT -6
Speaking of insanely priced parts , any of you shocked when you get your yearly filter bill !
Oh man , mine is close to 6000 dollars just for oil and air filters !
That is crazy and than gets a guy upset if you run into poor filters as it also causes you to lose a lot of oil if you have to spin the defective filters off to replace .
I don’t buy John Deere oil .
The cost of changing oil and filters is one cost I noticed that has gone thru the roof since the early 2000s!
Hey guys , maybe a dumb question , but do any of you skip an oil change in your equipment like a semi truck or rarely used tractor or tandem?
My semi s maybe get 3000 km a year . Seems crazy to drop oil on that use.
My elevators are close by .
I worry about cheeping out and risk engine damage
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Post by meskie on Apr 27, 2024 11:54:07 GMT -6
Fleet guard is made by Cummins that what we use for the most part. That or the OEM. Not a fan of wix filters.
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Post by northernfarmer on Apr 27, 2024 13:30:59 GMT -6
Hey guys , maybe a dumb question , but do any of you skip an oil change in your equipment like a semi truck or rarely used tractor or tandem? My semi s maybe get 3000 km a year . Seems crazy to drop oil on that use. While I won't make any claims or condone it since I have not been sending oil samples to prove anything one way or the other, on some pieces of equipment that have gotten delegated to much less use per year such as the tandems or certain smaller tractors I don't change it once a year like I "should". Its not like these items get run for a few minutes and never get up to temp as they typically get up to operating temp and used, they just don't get used for many days out of a season and sit all winter just like many pieces of farm equipment. The highway tractors sit and idle a lot when harvesting or hauling to the elevators so its more about the hours that get put on vs the km and most highway tractors have an hour meter so I record hours and km at each oil change and tend to go by the hours accumulated on the highway tractors along with time having past by to make my decision of when to change the oil. Other seasonal equipment such as the swather and combine, I always change them after the season is over and their engine air filters tend to get more packed up with dirt and so they might see more dirt finding its way into the oil in theory. With the field tractors that make claims of being able to change oil at 500 hours with such and such oil ( no, I don't use JD oil either ), I do not change oil at such extended intervals and as my example with a JD 9430 it gets about 170 hours a year and change it once a year. The only way one would really know is to send out samples by draining off or being able to suck out of the sump to grab one and track an on going same volume of oil to see what the lab says. |
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Post by meskie on Apr 27, 2024 13:42:34 GMT -6
We are the same way with oil change. Our chore tractors we go by the interval as they get used all year round. Our 6430jd says 500 hour but we are closer to 250-300 when we change as it gets pretty sludgey if you leave it longer. Doesn’t matter the oil type. Out NH T6030 the oil looked like new after 200 hours. It had a 600 hour service. Ran it to 10,000 hours and never burned any between changes.
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Post by northernfarmer on Apr 27, 2024 14:19:02 GMT -6
And to add, all the farm equipment other than the JD 9430 does not have an EGR, that brings a whole other level of "shit ... crap ... garbage ... bullshit" into the equation without a doubt. With that said, with the 9430 the oil is black within one day of use, that is total bullshit and can only imagine the amount of soot that is stacking up in the oil as a result of that idiotic system. So I just don't feel comfortable to run an engine like that to get all I can out of the oil regardless of some JD 500 hour claim.
Although it may not make much difference as far as oil longevity over a true conventional oil, I use ( what has become ) Mobil Delvac Super 1300 15W-40 part synthetic for equipment that sees spring through fall weather, and for anything else that will see any winter run time, Mobil Delvac 1 ESP 0W-40 full synthetic which means the highway tractors, any snow plow tractors etc. All I know is I pay enough for the oil and if I can prevent a turned bearing in an engine in colder weather as per the 0W-40 then it paid for itself many many times over.
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