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Post by northernfarmer on May 2, 2024 13:51:35 GMT -6
My channel lock filter pliers are a model 212 but they are smallish, good for some applications though and is the left photo, the model 215 on the right in this link by the website seems to be their largest size they make but is not a size that princess carries. I was looking at the Princess site and I see they have a few other brands and some questionable quality reviews, some typical low end china crap and performance tool that seems questionable as well and "automatic" adjuster which someone said causes the pliers to slip most of the time .. surprise surprise. I would not be reaching for pliers like this as my go to for normal filter removal, not my first choice anyway and would never use it to install a filter. I view them as a desperation tool as I prefer my steel band strap wrenches that I use for snugging up filter as well as removal.
By the way I have seen some use a chain wrench to remove a filter and that went just as I suspected as it caves into the side of the filter, I think that method would need a nice piece of curved steel as a backup under the area of the vice grip so it doesn't cave in the filter.
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Post by kevlar on May 2, 2024 16:13:16 GMT -6
Probably a good time to ask, what is a good tool for these big filters? I have been using one of these strap wrenches with 1/2" drive ratchet that has been on the farm for 40 years, never thought of buying something different but likely should. I see there is a metal band version that you use a ratchet to turn. Is that the best option or is there something else.
 Honestly you’re probably not going to find anything more versatile or work better than the strap type filter wrench. If your wrench is 40 years old it will still outlast the new ones. Broke the strap on one that wasn’t even a year old, new ones aren’t as well built. I made a crude wrench years ago to remove a filter that wouldn’t budge. Made from a piece of 1 inch square tubing and old chain. Works good for those fuel filters that have the clear bowl with the threaded ring that goes around it, those sometimes get tight and a strap wrench won’t fit over it. I won’t show a picture of it because it’s that crude! lol |
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Post by northernfarmer on May 2, 2024 17:36:01 GMT -6
I still have a nylon web strap wrench my dad bought long ago but that one had a round barrel and a mickey mouse dog leg handle that you flipped around to get the right angle on it to push or pull and also has a 3/8 drive end but the round barrel started to crush when I tried using it on a tougher filter and I just found it too cheap unfortunately. I did buy a Jet brand nylon strap wrench not that long ago but have yet to pull it out of its package so no input on what I might think of it. Here is info on the Ridgid strap wrenches, they are actually meant to turn pipe and I am pretty sure I had an aluminum pipe snipe on the end of the 18" handle and though I was going to rip the air dryer right off the frame. Mine just says its a Number 5 on the side and I bought what they had in town which was the aluminum handled one and they are not cheap at all, was not what I wanted to pay for the tool but my friend the heavy duty mechanic said this is what they use to get those stubborn spin on style air dryer filters off. Pay someone else to do it or pay for the tool in one use so figure what the hell and bought the tool. The strap is replaceable at a nice cost as well.
I looked at the part number on the package of the Jet tool and its a H3241 and the Jet site shows no photo so found another site that does. No idea how it would seem, it would need an extension unless its being used at the base of the filter, that is initially what I bought to remove that air dryer filter and then got the Ridgid tool and never used this one.
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Post by Oatking on May 2, 2024 18:27:13 GMT -6
I don’t mind the Deere filters with the half inch socket end . They are expensive hydraulic filters .
On a different subject , you should hear of all the cases of people over tightening their Indian motorcycle drain plugs !
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Post by kenmb on May 3, 2024 7:20:14 GMT -6
I have one of those rigid strap wrenches in the sprayer tool box to get the main filter open. About the only tool that works. I fight with it on oil filters since it tends to slip readily and so need very good access to use two hands to get it to tighten down. The strap one I use mainly with 1/2 drive tends to tilt and twist with more torque so more likely to bend the canister and then things get more difficult. I will try one of those metal band type that use 1/2" drive ratchet. Found this to be a good link. I never paid attention to what style filter I am using but now will. For the Qsx15 Donaldson and Baldwin are full flow. The Baldwin I had in my hand was $90. The Fleet gaurd, Case and Wix dual element units are $130 ish. Don't see an issue running a good full flow unit. The Kenworth has a remotely mounted bypass filter so I will need to pay attention and not put on a dual element filter next time. www.donaldson.com/en-us/engine/filters/technical-articles/full-flow-by-pass-lube-filtration-difference/ |
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Post by bob123 on May 3, 2024 7:43:07 GMT -6
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Post by northernfarmer on May 3, 2024 10:18:25 GMT -6
I would imagine there is a reason why both filter styles are made as you pointed out your Kenworth has a secondary bypass filter system so would stand to reason it probably can use a full flow filter for the main filter ( kenworth dealer would know what filter their parts system would call for ) , but with a single filter I can see a two in one setup like you installed as all this crap because of the egr dumping soot into the oil, I would imagine that finer bypass filter would be able to filter more of that garbage out of the oil if anything.
Like you said before, it very well could have been the threads on that Case IH filter that were causing the filter to seem tight when it actually was not and why the sealing ring leaks, good thing you discarded that rather than damage the threads on the filter head.
That Ridgid strap tool, I found it rather goofy to use but it did seem to grip ok on the air drier filter, for one thing it was brand new out of the box and the strap material has a bit of a tackiness to it, that would fade with use and getting dirty.
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Post by northernfarmer on May 3, 2024 10:45:47 GMT -6
That looks much like the Ridgid strap wrench only at a mere fraction of the cost, mind you mine has a 18" handle but they make the size you have as well. |
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Post by bob123 on May 3, 2024 12:49:16 GMT -6
That looks much like the Ridgid strap wrench only at a mere fraction of the cost, mind you mine has a 18" handle but they make the size you have as well. I've had to put a 3ft pipe on the handle before on my first oil change with an auction purchase lol... |
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Post by kenmb on May 3, 2024 13:04:51 GMT -6
I would have to check the name stamped on that strap wrench, could be its not Rigid and has a different strap material. I find it a PITA because I need to hold the strap with one hand and make multiple tries to get the strap to bite on the slippery canister rather than spin when I put a pull on the handle. If the strap was stickier it would be better. A chain vice grip works too, lots of tools when there is good access, it's the crappy areas to work in that a good tool is needed. Since I was looking specifically for Qsx15 filters and started looking into full flow designs, came across some interesting things like this one. www.donaldson.com/content/dam/donaldson/engine-hydraulics-bulk/literature/north-america/engine-liquid/Lube/F113026-ENG/Full-Flow-Lube-Filters-for-Cummins-ISX-Engines.pdfI wonder if that is factual that Fleetgaurd went from dual element to a full flow while still using the same FL14000 number - I would imagine Donaldson isn't making it up. I called a guy at Donaldson and asked about the two different full flow filters that are white, one has a lower filtering capability, and asked why the poorer one shows up as the replacement for the FL9070 and he said that their poorer one would be the more equivalent replacement for the Fleetgaurd FL9070. But if you want a better filter then get the P559000. When I asked about dual element vs full flow he said the full flow is basically there to minimize reduced oil flow with cold start ups. Not like - 30c cold, just cold engine. Donaldson doesn't think a dual element filter adds much but does restrict flow on cold start so they stick with the full flow. Fleetgaurd seems to flip flop on the idea. These filters are all running synthetic media so do a good job of filtering and therefore that also reduces the need for a bypass element. The Wix I have, FL9070 (and so likely the Case), the better Donaldson all use some form of synthetic media, don't remember if the Baldwin does but I think so. I suppose it comes back to whatever a guy is comfortable with. But a $90 filter is not necessarily worse than a $130 filter, and the $90 may be better for a number of reasons. The one "that works" can be more expensive than the one that best suits the application. |
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Post by Oatking on May 3, 2024 17:42:08 GMT -6
I hear you bob 123 about new to me purchased equipment and the joys of the first oil changes!! Some water filters on trucks are nasty to get a good hold on no matter what type of wrench you have ! I never use a wrench when I install a filter. I am surprised you guys like the strap filter wrench. I tried one and hated it . Maybe I didn’t have the right one . I should have converted my Deere filters to fleet guard . But I hate changing filter brands because than it just gets confusing what goes where ! Especially when you get a pallet full of filters ! The tv140 I once owned was my worst experience with fuel filters that just didn’t seal . The filters were updated but did not fit on the old tractor filter housing ! It was impossible to get the tractor to run smoothly . I ended up finding a new original filter from mazers that had the housing attached to it . That was an expensive filter change ! |
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