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Post by northernfarmer on Nov 25, 2023 19:39:22 GMT -6
This sure gives off a warm and fuzzy feeling for anyone owning an electric vehicle, even all these hybrids that have come on the market are deadly as Jeep has demonstrated here.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Nov 25, 2023 20:08:33 GMT -6
I have never liked the idea of attached garages or the popular garage integrated into the house, I would prefer a separate garage so that if your vehicle does burn you don't lose your house as well. As most of us live in the country the chances of a timely response by the fire department is zero or less.
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Post by northernfarmer on Nov 30, 2023 17:42:20 GMT -6
I was watching a bit of "South Main Auto Repair" which is a youtube channel from New York state and as he was working on a vehicle he was commenting that he had been to NY city lately and he noticed a number of parking garages had a sign stating "No EV's" , now he didn't comment beyond that but am sure he has a good idea why. In my mind its because of the risk of fire and a major fire along with the deadly toxic fumes. The reason he noticed this on various parking garages was that he was driving a GM 2500 and he had to go to a few parking garages before they would allow him in as the truck was simply too big for some of these garages.
Heres another incident, this time Australia that happened a couple of days ago. A cement truck that was converted to electric ( to save the planet bullshit typical crap ) and has a swap in battery system as I would guess it can't be charged fast enough to hit the road again. It was not in an accident, it just decided to burst into flames on the freeway and totally messed up traffic for 12 hours and of course a major amount of toxic fumes going where ever the wind was that day.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Nov 30, 2023 23:05:33 GMT -6
I have a no start on a 2010 van, this thing has been a major PITA, but the real treat is that unless I subscribe to a online manual place I don't have any wiring diagrams for it and it is really hard to troubleshoot without one. The sites are generally over $100 a month for 1 vehicle, if you had a business like south main auto I think it is more like $1500 a month.
That's crazy.
I have the service manuals in book form for the rest of my vehicles and they have the diagrams, but all that went away and now it seems they are all the online crap.
Eric O is awesome on the SMA youtubes.
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Post by northernfarmer on Dec 1, 2023 9:17:37 GMT -6
Do you own one of those fancy diagnostic tablets like SMA has a few of to chose from, it seems these days unless one has access to or owns one of those and as you said a wiring diagram of the whole vehicle system ( and knows how to operate the darned thing ! ) , a person is totally helpless in knowing what is wrong.
With your van I am guessing its cranking over ok but not starting. In simple terms that usually means the engine is not getting fuel or its not getting spark. I don't even know how to test to see if there is spark on these newer non spark plug cable engines, nor how to tell if its fuelling at the injectors as I am so far behind the curve its laughable as I don't own any sort of diagnostic reader. The only suggestion I can throw out off the top of my head to easily check is if you do or don't hear the fuel pump in the tank start up when you turn the key on ? ( might need two people for that test so you can have your head under the van when the key is turned to run ... assuming it even has a key ! )
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Post by meskie on Dec 1, 2023 10:24:39 GMT -6
Crank sensor or cam sensor would cause the no start situation also. The computer doesn’t recognize the engine is turning over to give it fuel or spark.
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Post by northernfarmer on Dec 1, 2023 10:43:09 GMT -6
Crank sensor or cam sensor would cause the no start situation also. The computer doesn’t recognize the engine is turning over to give it fuel or spark.
Thats right as the engine could be lacking either one or both fuel and spark but the list of what it could be would be far longer as in sensors, wiring, ecm and on and on and possibly more complicated to figure out than an old school engine, at least without a diagnostic tool. It used to be that a guy who had an understanding of the systems could at least diagnose/narrow down the reason for the no start with next to no tools to figure out if there is spark or fuel present. Of course each vehicle system type shows its weak spots over some years of use and someone familiar with the somewhat aged vehicle in question will have a list of those problematic components or wiring etc ( like you pointed out a crank or cam sensor failure )
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Dec 1, 2023 19:52:47 GMT -6
No crank, no start.
I ran a jumper from the battery to the starter solenoid and had my wife turn the key to start and it did start when I touched the +, it didn't seem to set any codes from my trickery, that antitheft stuff can stand in the way of a diagnosis sometimes.
I am very suspicious of a group of about 6 wires jammed into a single ground lug under the TIPM, it doesn't look too bad but I see a bit of corrosion-like discoloration, and a bit of multimeter checking shows a lack of consistent grounding on the relays.
We will do the old jumper trick tomorrow to start it and get it in the shop here (no driver available today) and I will redo that ground lug with some solder as a finishing touch, if that isn't it I guess I get to learn about TIPM's where I will be looking for corrosion damage. I also checked with the autel that it was seeing the shifter was in park, as that would be a no go permissive (it was seeing park)
I had my Autel ms906 last night. but I couldn't force the starter relay. I did force the fuel pump but mostly to check if the relays made an audible click since the starter relay wasn't picking up (they do click by the way)
This vehicle would be nearly impossible to troubleshoot without a diagnostic tool, fun fact Autel wants $500 a year for a subscription for updates, forever.
I have done several crankshaft position sensors in the Jeeps, they are a real treat. Had one was failing so the Jeep would just quit, but would restart right away at first but got progressively worse until I changed the sensor.
Thank you for the suggestions so far!
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Post by northernfarmer on Dec 1, 2023 21:27:19 GMT -6
Uh, I see now and its a terminology miscommunication that threw me off in a different direction as to what was happening. I could be wrong in this but I have always thought one either stated I have a "no crank" problem ( and not using the word start ) , or if it turns over but does not start its a "crank but no start" problem. The English language, its so easy to say a word that can have more than one meaning.
So from what you tried, the starter definitely works as well as the starter solenoid although no guarantee its perfect but certainly capable of turning over the engine well enough to start it. Good question what is going on as you never enhanced the ground circuit with your bypass, only the power circuit to the starter solenoid. I wonder if there is a natural positive voltage drop due to the circuits it must flow through and just gave it the edge, or of course there really is a problem on the positive side and that could even be corrosion in a plug or the wires terminated end at the starter, also could be the ignition switch. As to the negative side and have found where numerous wires all go into one terminal lug, that certainly could have corrosion in it or at the very least corrosion where it bolts onto the body of the van. Soldering with any corrosion may not get you the results though as its like putting lipstick on a pig and if there is enough wire available, install another lug and this time solder it and seal it up with shrink tubing.
Had you tried boosting the van, and the reason I ask is because its entirely possible your struggling with marginal voltage added to other questionable connections and may give it the edge to function the starter solenoid properly. Hopefully the issue is simple and can find it, beyond that I suppose you would have to try voltage drops within the wires and voltage reading at the starter solenoid when the key is turned.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Dec 1, 2023 21:44:01 GMT -6
I wondered about the voltage as well as the analyzer was reading 11.9 so I put a booster pack on it to prove that it wasn't being held out by a marginal low voltage, didn't work so back to the grounding issue.
Yes the connections will be clean and soldered solid so no hidden problems! If the wire is black it needs to be replaced I find.
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Post by northernfarmer on Dec 1, 2023 22:22:02 GMT -6
11.9 battery, I don't suppose you have a fairly fresh fully charged battery you could drop in as I think your van is in bad need of a new battery even if there are other issues. A bad battery can sure throw a person as sometimes there's enough of an issue with a battery that even boosting one can not deliver the power one assumes should be available ( and you could have some corrosion on the battery connections compounding the problem )
Black or green on copper wires is certainly a total mess to solder and expect anything to stick, I've had to try and use sand paper on the copper strands to clean off all the corrosion and use brake clean etc to make sure no grease etc is on the strands, then go at it soldering. All because of no wire to work with or cutting it back and still finding a mess along the wire where sound insulation had been ( corrosion creeping its way up the wire ).
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Dec 2, 2023 8:24:34 GMT -6
The multimeter had it at 12.04, but the scanner was 11.9, not a big difference but if a threshold was crossed it could be a big deal, yes.
I have done the sandpaper, scotchbrite, wire brushing, non corrosive paste (not sure how that is possible) on the same situations with no length left and a hard to replace component on the end of it. Sometimes I wonder about the quality of some wire as well.
Once I get it in the shop we'll see better, I want to get it off the street in town for now, was thinking I would have to get it towed, but we proved it will start so we'll go get it today.
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Post by northernfarmer on Feb 10, 2024 17:09:23 GMT -6
As I haven't been driving a newer vehicle I did not realize that a lot of newer vehicles have a battery management system ( BMS for short ) and just one more thing that can screw with a person. Not all setups are the same as to where this BMS reads the current going into the battery so simply having a battery that has drained over time or something was left on and its drained down, charging the battery with a charger by putting the positive and negative cables on the battery posts bypasses the BMS and the vehicles system seems to not like that and perhaps not even charge the battery properly after such a situation. The solution apparently is to put the negative lead of the charger onto a body or engine ground so that the BMS will read that the battery is being charged. Also its said that the BMS system needs to be reset when the battery is changed out to optimize how the charging system charges the new battery but simply disconnecting the battery for a while will not reset that BMS system. All this bullshit created just so that the alternator by way of the ECM can reduce a slight amount of power demand from the alternator to squeeze out a few drops of fuel mileage. So once again either need to have the fancy type of computer scanner and now how to operate it and get yearly updates or see your dealer.
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Post by northernfarmer on Feb 10, 2024 17:33:08 GMT -6
On the topic of insurance as I see the comments about farm insurance and tired of being bent over and having to take it, I had not realized until a couple of years ago that there was such a thing as a "winter tire" insurance reduction and perhaps this has not been around that many years, I don't know. So for sure when renewing insurance on vehicles, ask your agent about that and see if you can get a bit of a rate savings and if insuring multiple cars/pickups it would all add up. And as far as I know even the three peak mountain rated all terrain tires are considered winter rated tires so doesn't even mean dedicated winter only tires.
Also when it comes to vehicles, pickups in this instance so the brands are all similar in that they have a cab and a box but there are various rate differences all depending on the brand and weight classification, so 1/2 ton vs 3/4 ton vs 1 ton. The insurance company I am dealing with may vary to the next one but their theme they see is that Ford as a whole in the world of pickups since they went full on aluminum has had higher insurance premium rates due to higher costs to repair aluminum bodies, next was Ram, then GM. But it doesn't stop there as one can pick a certain vehicle value with the same brand but in 1/2 .. or 3/4 or 1 ton and come up with different rates for each truck weight classification. Oddly enough there is a reduction on insurance rates going from a 3/4 to a 1 ton truck, they are the same truck pretty much between those weight ratings and the agent I talked to was guessing that perhaps 1 tons as a grouping don't get stolen as often as a 3/4 ton. I don't have the answer but thought that was interesting as I would have guessed that the total price of the vehicle was the major determining fact in what one paid and yet it doesn't seem to be, not if one pushes up the comprehensive and collision deductibles to a degree, the price tag of the same weight classification of truck can vary a lot ( lower end trim gas vs high end trim diesel ) and yet the insurance premium remains very close to the same.
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Post by northernfarmer on Feb 11, 2024 13:02:29 GMT -6
I thought I would throw out a question to get some opinions on what "you" would most likely buy for a new or slightly used pickup that would be used for transportation and be that longer trips, typical trips to town for business, parts, groceries etc and towing trailers of whatever description. Basically your "good" pickup so probably not the use a farm dedicated pickup gets used/abused for ripping back and forth to the field hauling fuel and crap. So brand , crew cab or other cab size, long or short box, and if its a 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton, and gas or diesel, and can throw out the trim level and options you would choose. And also explain what drew you to that choice, be it power, better fuel economy, more reliable truck/driveline than other brands etc.
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