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Post by generalchaos on Apr 8, 2024 8:05:32 GMT -6
My son and I had our transmission rebuilt at Trans Tech on Plessis Rd. I thought they were reasonable.They have a one year warranty.
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Post by iamwill on Apr 19, 2024 14:31:42 GMT -6
So I ended up getting a 2013 sierra 2500hd to replace the half ton with the transmission issues. Dropped the old truck off at the transmission shop that fixed it last time and they said they would "work" with me on it. Anyway the new truck is a scratch and dent special but it is nearly impossible to find regular cab long box trucks. Looks like it went off the road into some trees by the look of all the damage to the paint. Is titled as rebuilt so it was about half price of similar trucks and has less than 120k on it. Any suggestions to deal with the scratches and scrapes? They aren't through the paint so just cosmetic.
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Post by iamwill on May 7, 2024 9:02:51 GMT -6
Got a call from the transmission shop and the truck is fixed again. They gave me a 40% discount so the bill was under a thousand bucks. He said the pump gave out again and that the pump pivot pin (?) Was badly worn. Only had about 5000k on it and was replaced with the last overhaul so I am not sure what to think of that. Anyway have been using the old daully to feed the cows with but it is a standard and that is a pain. How it is that a 25 year old truck with twice the kms on it, that weights twice as much, uses less fuel than one 12 years newer doing the exact same job is beyond my understanding.
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Post by meskie on May 7, 2024 9:26:08 GMT -6
The new 1/2 ton with the diesels in them are finally back to the same mileage as the mid 90s 6.2 and 6.5 diesels from chev.
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Post by northernfarmer on May 9, 2024 7:20:19 GMT -6
Got a call from the transmission shop and the truck is fixed again. They gave me a 40% discount so the bill was under a thousand bucks. He said the pump gave out again and that the pump pivot pin (?) Was badly worn. Only had about 5000k on it and was replaced with the last overhaul so I am not sure what to think of that. Anyway have been using the old daully to feed the cows with but it is a standard and that is a pain. How it is that a 25 year old truck with twice the kms on it, that weights twice as much, uses less fuel than one 12 years newer doing the exact same job is beyond my understanding. How can a part ( assuming it was part of the replacement ) be worn out in 5000 km when it should last as long as a new transmission or at least a proper reman trans. Something seems odd, I wonder if the parts that are being sourced are that bad a quality. |
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Post by northernfarmer on May 9, 2024 7:23:39 GMT -6
The new 1/2 ton with the diesels in them are finally back to the same mileage as the mid 90s 6.2 and 6.5 diesels from chev. Its a marvel isn't it, what the engineers designed now to do that well on fuel and with much better hp numbers ... all while flowing through what amounts to a tail pipe stuffed up with 3 or 4 bananas .... |
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Post by OptimallyDismal on May 9, 2024 8:32:11 GMT -6
Right now I have a 2012 Grand Cherokee with the driveshaft hanger bearing rubber mount failed, the bearing is ok.
Have to order a new driveshaft $1200 because it would seem it is unrepairable, nice.
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tsipp
Junior Member
Spring valley, Saskatchewan
Posts: 98
Likes: 64
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Post by tsipp on May 9, 2024 10:41:33 GMT -6
Right now I have a 2012 Grand Cherokee with the driveshaft hanger bearing rubber mount failed, the bearing is ok. Have to order a new driveshaft $1200 because it would seem it is unrepairable, nice. I had to google it, it looks like you can change the bearings on the shaft, 50 bucks a bearing on Amazon. YouTube has some pretty good videos. |
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Post by OptimallyDismal on May 9, 2024 12:30:13 GMT -6
I watched some of those videos and saw an upgraded driveshaft that looks like a lot better unit, called to cancel the OEM replacement and they gave a much better price, so I am still going OEM, and then I can do the fix on the old one and have a spare.
There are a lot of failures on the OEM style, either the hanger bearing rubber mounts or the CV style joints on the ends, the Ebay units have regular U joints and no hangers, much simpler and thinking more reliable, but now the price is about the same with shipping etc on the custom one.
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Post by northernfarmer on May 13, 2024 20:25:39 GMT -6
I think some of you will find this interesting, on the topic of adding "magical engine oil additives" that have wild claims and yes a few of them out there as he pointed out work great in that friction machine the trade show guys love to use for the wow factor.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on May 14, 2024 6:38:05 GMT -6
I heard an oil engineer put a gob of spit in the friction machine as an additive and it couldn't be stalled out, vender wasn't impressed.
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Post by northernfarmer on May 14, 2024 10:00:09 GMT -6
I heard an oil engineer put a gob of spit in the friction machine as an additive and it couldn't be stalled out, vender wasn't impressed. That friction machine may have its place for some lubricant application but from what I have been told more than once by those more in the know that work for mainline lubrication companies, it is an irrelevant test when it comes to engine oils and how they work in an engine. Its often used as a gimmick for the snake oil additive salesman. I can't recall which additive it was years back that a certain colony in southern Alberta tried out and no idea how many pieces of equipment they put it in but the claim was that the additive broke down and turned into an acid and ate the bearings in one diesel engine for sure, was either a tractor or combine. |
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Post by cptusa on Jul 24, 2024 17:32:04 GMT -6
Chasing my tail on this one.
2002 Ford F250, 6.8 v10.
This truck starts and idles perfect, runs like a stripped ass ape for a half mile to a mile then starts missing so bad it won't pull itself but doesn't stall out. Let off throttle and goes to a good steady idle but push the accelerator and misses horribly. Shut truck off for a couple seconds and fires right up and runs like a champ again for the same half mile to mile. Kick truck in neutral when it starts missing and coast for bit, refire, drop in to drive and she's gonna run great until it doesn't again.
No check engine light. Have replaced fuel sock on pump, fuel filter, mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor. Truck has around 512k miles.
Ideas?
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Post by Oatking on Jul 24, 2024 18:49:00 GMT -6
Chasing my tail on this one. 2002 Ford F250, 6.8 v10. This truck starts and idles perfect, runs like a stripped ass ape for a half mile to a mile then starts missing so bad it won't pull itself but doesn't stall out. Let off throttle and goes to a good steady idle but push the accelerator and misses horribly. Shut truck off for a couple seconds and fires right up and runs like a champ again for the same half mile to mile. Kick truck in neutral when it starts missing and coast for bit, refire, drop in to drive and she's gonna run great until it doesn't again. No check engine light. Have replaced fuel sock on pump, fuel filter, mass air flow sensor, throttle position sensor. Truck has around 512k miles. Ideas? Air filter ? |
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Post by meskie on Jul 24, 2024 19:09:01 GMT -6
Ignition coils?
Something in your tank that plugs up till you let off the throttle?
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