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Post by wheatking76 on Aug 4, 2022 21:34:29 GMT -6
putting the finishing touches on the Macdon fd70 the left side motor started leaking last year rather than put seals in a wore out motor i bought a new one and i cant seem to get the dam thing off i pull the lines off and 2 set screws out and pulled and beat got it where i can put my fingers between the plate and motor but doesnt seem to want to move any more from there, took the canvas apart and slid the bottom out so i can lift it i beat on the little bar there and think i got it to move a bit more but is there something else? dont really wan to wreck the bottom bar piece or hammer to much on the bearings
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Aug 4, 2022 22:06:16 GMT -6
Judging by how mushroomed the heads on the fancy little bolts on my 722 motors are, and other assorted dings they are a bit difficult to work on, I have had my moments with them as well, but pry bars are what I use. The one thing I can say is if you get it apart be sure you use never seize on it when you put it back together in case you are the next one to have to work on it again!
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Post by kevlar on Aug 4, 2022 22:21:31 GMT -6
Can you use a torch on it? I’m not familiar with Macdon but find it frustrating sometimes to try and figure out how each company assembled those rollers and bearings, they all seem a little different. If you’re putting a new one on, I would at the very least heat it up a little.
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Post by victory on Aug 5, 2022 14:18:56 GMT -6
When I went to college, and that was quite a while ago, they told us if it didn't work get a bigger hammer!
That said, I think the other guys are giving you better advice. There are some very good penetrating oils available if you can give them a little time to work.
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Post by meskie on Aug 5, 2022 15:44:29 GMT -6
If a bigger hammer doesn’t work get the BFH is what we were told.
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Post by wheatking76 on Aug 5, 2022 17:35:04 GMT -6
i got it off, let it soak over night the key was so wore it was crooked in the roller so took quite a beating to get loosened up and apart, both were pretty chewed up, i dont want to do this for a while so i replaced both motor and roller
just a reminder put the set screws in before putting roller in i dropped and lost one trying to put them in the little hole on the side
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Post by meskie on Aug 5, 2022 17:57:58 GMT -6
Check your set screws after a couple hours also. I always put a bit of locktite on them also.
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Post by SWMan on Aug 25, 2022 22:00:38 GMT -6
Asking a Macdon question here. One of my headers was slipping the feed drum last fall, figured it was the chain drive so I bought chains and finally got around to changing them and turns out they are fine. Looks like it's the slip clutch in the silver chaincase on LH side of the adapter. So even though Macdon is based in Manitoba this part has to come from Regina! I thought if it was a common item I would keep a spare, especially since no local stock. But it is $850 so if they are pretty rare to fail I will leave it. Anyone know if it is something worth keeping around?
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Post by meskie on Aug 25, 2022 22:23:12 GMT -6
We have never had problems with that. Have a 08 fd70 and a 13 d65. Had the centre drum clutch blow up one year on the fd70.
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Post by bob123 on Aug 26, 2022 17:09:15 GMT -6
I'm kind of suspecting my auger drive clutch is a bit weak but I haven't replaced it yet. I removed the bar that actuated the finger clutch so it doesnt blow up on me
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Post by SWMan on Aug 26, 2022 20:33:16 GMT -6
Found out the neighbors keep a spare slip-clutch so when I heard that I figured that's the solution...ha ha. Little bit disappointed Macdon can't keep some more parts closer though, not like there isn't a boatload of these headers in service!
bob123 the part you removed, was it difficult to do? That is the reason that the feed augers blow up? I doubt there would be any major difference for unplugging without it.
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Post by bob123 on Aug 26, 2022 23:15:17 GMT -6
bob123 the part you removed, was it difficult to do? That is the reason that the feed augers blow up? I doubt there would be any major difference for unplugging without it. No it's pretty simple, just pull the finger that holds the square tube to actuate the clutch and take the square tube out. The augers blow up when you have a bent finger shaft and then when the clutch flips in reverse the fingers fall out of the bushings and punch thru the drum. I've ran without that tube for 2 years and never had a plug I couldnt reverse out. I actually went a step further now and welded the finger clutch solid in the forward position to make sure it could never flop over
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Post by SWMan on Aug 31, 2022 21:29:27 GMT -6
Upon further disassembly when replacing the slip clutch on the FD75 I found that one of the bearings on the shaft that goes from the chaincase over to the feed drum drive was out and surely the reason for the clutch acting up. I think after taking everything apart I will understand my headers better.
So if someone has issues with the slip clutch might want to check the bearings on the downstream end of it, kinda have to take the plastic cover off next to the center feed auger.
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Post by SWMan on Sept 2, 2022 21:16:28 GMT -6
The header is full of Chinese bearings, going back together with NTN Japanese bearings. Frustrating when a company cheaps out on little stuff and it wrecks big stuff. Shaft was scored and it was a bit of a job to get it all apart and back together.
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Post by shmiffy on Sept 3, 2022 0:03:19 GMT -6
Major piss off replacing Chinese bearings on an over priced price of equipment.
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