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Post by kevlar on Nov 26, 2021 20:51:53 GMT -6
Got around to cutting off the cage today, I was wrong about it having 30 places welded on, it was only 27 😂. And the tabs were welded on both sides. If they put as much effort into the rest of the auger, it should be well built!
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Post by northernfarmer on Nov 26, 2021 21:08:46 GMT -6
Or they may have put a large portion of the build labour into the cage and belt guards for liability reasons and winged the rest of the build
Sounds like they spared no efforts to make it as difficult as possible to remove the cage, on the Meridian auger at least they bolted it on to tabs they had welded on but I had to cut off the tabs as they would have been in the way for the bin sweep assembly. If it wasn't for having to stick the auger into flat bottom bins my cage could have in theory stayed on but that just isn't an option.
Had you mounted on the mover yet or that is still in the works, also what was going to power the mover hydraulic motor ?
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Post by kevlar on Nov 26, 2021 21:19:55 GMT -6
That’s next weeks project hopefully, deer season got in the way the last 3 weeks. Ya hydraulic driven, exactly like with a gas motor just drove off the electric motor. Going to have to remove some of the belt guards so we can pop the belt off easier when moving it. The way that guard is now it would be next to impossible to even get a finger in anywhere enough to get it ripped off!
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Post by northernfarmer on Nov 26, 2021 23:36:19 GMT -6
If you had an electric motor kicking around that you could mount on and control separately would be nice as that way no belts would have to be removed and just fire up the mover motor with the same or smaller cord and at any time you wanted to adjust the height of the auger or lift/lower the bottom end or slightly move the auger tires while the auger is in use, it could be done. I guess in my mind it seems like a fair hassle to have to stop the auger, get the belts off and throw on a short belt to the pump every time you need to run the hydraulics for the winch, hydraulic cylinder and powered wheels.
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Post by kevlar on Nov 27, 2021 9:08:08 GMT -6
I can leave the belt on for the hydraulic motor, it’s the main drive belt I have to remove when I move the auger. There is an extra pulley on the motor for the hydraulic pump.
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Post by northernfarmer on Nov 27, 2021 10:20:02 GMT -6
Ok so it is set up like a typical auger engine then with enough pulley groves to accommodate both operations at once so at least that way if you elect to keep the small belt on you can and then all functions work as you are augering. As long as you don't mind throwing off the auger drive belts when the auger isn't to be run, for sure that setup will work. It must be interesting though to move it with a cord attached and have to watch what you are doing and not go and run over your cord.
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Post by farmshop on Dec 15, 2021 17:19:11 GMT -6
We use a Westfield 10x36 swing hopper to load trucks. We also have a Westfield 13x71 swing that fills bins. The capacity of the 13 is pretty impressive. I will agree the double hoppers don’t clean out great. As far as moving the hoppers flat free tires help I don’t notice much difference between the 2 except the 13 is longer and has more wiggle room lining up under the truck
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Post by kevlar on Dec 16, 2021 20:25:27 GMT -6
Got the auger all set up now for the most part, will have to modify the lift a bit as it won't quite go high enough for some of our bins, but can use it for now. As most things in my life, what looked like it should have been a quick job, turned out to be more. Everything ALMOST fit, but everything needed some form of modification . Did the seal on the pump when I had it off, and like the rest, wasn't as easy as it should have been. But everything works as it should. Also discovered that maybe one brace had been welded in the wrong spot at the factory, no matter what we did with the winch, the cable would rub on the brace, got it more or less addressed. It's funny/frustrating how hard it is to put those brackets and levers back together after you take them apart, seem so simple until you are staring at them in pieces! (The ones for locking in the drive motors and the oil pump on the engine).
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Post by kenmb on Dec 16, 2021 23:21:41 GMT -6
I suppose the cherry on top for that project would be to put an electric clutch on the belt drive for the flighting.
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Post by northernfarmer on Dec 17, 2021 0:10:49 GMT -6
When you say it won't go high enough for some of your bins, do you mean the top end as you are using this auger to fill bins with at times ?. I notice you are using what I would refer to as the older winch style or at least its not the worm style winch. Hopefully whatever system it is, its more reliable and safe then the pile of crap I had years back with a threaded collar much like hand winches have and it stripped the threads and the auger came down until it hit its mechanical stop and I suspect it slightly tweaked the auger with that sudden stop. Only then did I come to find out that this was not a rare problem and then bought the updated winch.
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Post by kevlar on Dec 17, 2021 8:26:38 GMT -6
It won't lift the bottom end up high enough, this will just load trucks, won't reach any of the bins to fill it. It does have the old style winch, which I'm not a huge fan of and might switch out at some point, like you said, the threaded collar does wear out.
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Post by northernfarmer on Dec 17, 2021 10:36:20 GMT -6
Ok that makes more sense as I was wondering how a 41 foot auger was reaching anything more then a tall truck !. As to the bottom end not lifting high enough, I wonder if that is more of a problem yet on shorter augers since they have to be set steeper to reach above a truck. I also noticed that your mover isn't quite the same as mine in that the bottom of the ram on your mover hooks directly to the mover frame where as mine ( on a 46' auger ) has almost a sub frame with adjustable pipe that attaches onto two spots onto the mover caster axle and then the opposite end of the ram onto the underside of the control half clam shell wrap around assembly. Having said that I have mine set so the tires can barely lift off the ground when the ram is sucked in all the way and sometimes its not quite as much wheel lift as I would like but I need the lift on the bottom to reach up off the ground to get into flat bottom bin openings that are way up off the ground and no I can't do that with the truck there as I have to lower the top end first as I imagine you are doing to get the bottom lifted high enough to set where you want and then lift the top of the auger after. Its almost like one could use a two stage ram that would fit in the same mounts and collapse as much or more and yet extend considerably longer and still be a double acting ram.
I don't know if I threw out that winch or if its still kicking around, it would have needed the winch shaft as well as that collar and it never did work worth crap when it got colder and had to winch the auger up higher, its like it never had enough auger weight at that angle to slip the winch friction clutch and so the threaded collar was backing off all the way and I think that was causing thread damage and was not aware it was going to shit itself like it did. Yours may not have that issue, I know a neighbour used his auger for many years and never had his winch fail. These worm winches are considerably slower but is smooth and predictable and has no brake clutch system internally that I am aware of and winches without a sound. It was stupid expensive way back when I bought it, can't imagine what they are now as an assembly if not in a mover kit. The slime balls at AGI won't sell a mover kit on its own without totally raping a person unless one buys it with one of their augers. If you ever have something start to feel funny with the winch, get the truck out from under it and go from there.
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Post by meskie on Dec 17, 2021 10:47:21 GMT -6
I was gonna say our mover like that has an adjustable pipe where the ram hooks to the mover also.
Our 10x41 will reach the inspection hole on a 146 bin on a hopper if we need to dump seed back in a bin during seeding.
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Post by kenmb on Dec 17, 2021 10:58:55 GMT -6
Yes, same adjustable pipe on the 8" wheatheart here. Pretty sure it's a longer ram than what Kevlar shows as the auger mover here also attaches the cylinder to that moveable bandclamp on the auger tube. I suppose Kevlar can weld an extension on to that lower mount to give some more height. Leave it with multiple holes so you can adjust the location as needed. I also had that tube for the caster wheels break away from where it mounts to that horizontal frame. Don't know how big of an issue it is but a little enforcement before it happens is probably better than repairing after it happens.
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Post by meskie on Dec 17, 2021 11:42:35 GMT -6
I’ve known a few guys who have had the tube break or bend on the castor wheels but ours is 11 years old and has been good so far.
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