joru
New Member
Posts: 39 Likes: 10
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Post by joru on Nov 16, 2021 15:31:26 GMT -6
So what is your opinion after a full year? Are you gonna stick with that drill?
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Post by SWMan on Nov 17, 2021 0:14:51 GMT -6
I loved the drill, it was mine for testing but I did not own it. I was kinda waiting to see if I got my fertilizer on this fall as to whether I would buy it, since it was a double shoot. I did get all my fertilizer on and it sold to someone else in the meantime anyways. I'll look at a single shoot K-Hart when it's time to replace my current one for sure, not sure when that will be though.
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joru
New Member
Posts: 39 Likes: 10
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Post by joru on Nov 18, 2021 12:00:21 GMT -6
Do you think that drill will work in heavy clay soils? I know a few guys looking at that drill but nobody wants to be the first one, because nobody can tell us, how that opener will perform if the ground is dry on top and wet underneath. Thats where so far the single disc drills like JD or NH will shine.
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Post by shmiffy on Nov 18, 2021 19:48:48 GMT -6
There is a 74 foot on Kijiji with 5000 acres on it
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Post by SWMan on Nov 18, 2021 23:53:24 GMT -6
Do you think that drill will work in heavy clay soils? I know a few guys looking at that drill but nobody wants to be the first one, because nobody can tell us, how that opener will perform if the ground is dry on top and wet underneath. Thats where so far the single disc drills like JD or NH will shine. Joru I farm in a clay-loam soil, and although some of my dirt is heavier it would be nothing like what you or others on here farm. I believe the Hartman's have some gumbo type land though, and the opener has been used on that soil before. My guess is that it works as good or better than the single-disc unit so long as the scraper on the rear of the opener is set properly and discs are shimmed properly. Mine weren't set to a super tight tolerance but it was mostly a dry seeding season for me, and I had zero opener plugging issues even though seeding into some wet dirt at the end of seeding. The unit on kijiji would be from Hartman's farm, where they are in the business of building and selling drills. I'm surprised they got that many acres on it, as I recall it sat parked for quite awhile in spring until someone could get the Bourgault tank behind it to work....
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Post by shmiffy on Dec 8, 2021 6:28:04 GMT -6
SWMan looks like your famous. They have your seeding outfit on Facebook ads
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Post by SWMan on Dec 8, 2021 9:58:58 GMT -6
SWMan looks like your famous. They have your seeding outfit on Facebook ads Low requirements for being famous these days. Ha ha I would have never known...
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kens
New Member
Posts: 39 Likes: 17
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Post by kens on Oct 21, 2022 19:43:47 GMT -6
SWman . Did you use this drill this spring. Any updates. The openers look great, would like to see how the frame holds up after a few seasons.
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Post by SWMan on Oct 21, 2022 23:39:47 GMT -6
SWman . Did you use this drill this spring. Any updates. The openers look great, would like to see how the frame holds up after a few seasons. No, just ran it the one year. There was a few improvements made to production models relating to ease of adjustment and pretty much every concern I had about the machine was addressed. I guess you can be pretty nimble when it's a small company like that.
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Post by mountrose on Feb 26, 2023 23:14:32 GMT -6
Anyone have any more experience with one of these? Very intriguing design to me. Seems like it could work very well and be somewhat low maintenance for a disc drill. I need you guys to buy a decent amount of these new so that the used market is better for me in a few years to get one
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Post by lowrider27 on Apr 1, 2023 20:28:29 GMT -6
Just became a member to the forum and saw the chatter about KHarts Spyder disc drill. I know a little about disc drills because we have farmed with them for over 30 years now. My son and I farm 2500 acres in the Yellow Grass, Sask area. Our ground is heavy light brown soil . It works nicely when it is dryer, but can be very challenging when wet. Lots of my neighbors seem to be having good success around here with Air hoe drills, but I love the disc drills because they pull easier and seem to love no till. At one time we were pulling 45 feet of Great Plains Box drills with a 170 hp MFD. It worked ok, but really didn’t have the weight we wanted to seed into harder dryer ground . But I quess it wasn’t to bad because we put 19 years on that machine. Our disc drill now and for the last 13 years is a Salford 522 40 foot with mounted 185 bus fertilizer tank and mid row disc banders . The Salford had been just excellent in every way imaginable. However , Salford was bought out by the same company that bought out Macdon years ago, and is no longer being built. So, lately we’ve been looking at the Spyder disc drill. Here are some of my observations of both the good and the bad features that jump out at me about the Spyder. First of KHart has the best disc bearing on the market today- bar non! Secondly; the tires on the Spyder look like this thing should seed through water ( something we have actually done , to a point, with the Salford. The Spyder has a unique method of folding , that actually keeps the drill about a foot lower height than the Salford does. I haven’t got a shed that my Salford would go into because the 40 foot is almost 16.5 feet tall in transport. The Spyder has a very narrow Center section. This is great for transporting down a narrow road, but to me, the Spyder looks a little tippy because of this . Also , I really like the idea of the undercut disc arrangement ! This has got to improve germination, as the slanted trench is trying to collapse and cover up the seed with moist soil, just because of gravity. An open vertical trench , like the Salford makes needs a packer to close the seed trench. The Spyder is touted as having approximately 1000 lbs per foot( actually it’s a little less than 1000 lbs per foot) In my experience , it will seed good in softer soil, but I’m Leary about its penetration in hard soil, when your chasing moisture . Now , factor in that big 18 inch disc on a 22 degree angle with the surface of your soil , and you have a lot bigger foot print to try and push into the dirt than you do with the knife edge foot print of a more vertical double disc( like the Salford), requires. Contrary to what several others have said, the angle of the Spyder disc opener, will not have a tendency to suck the disc deeper; in fact , I believe it will want to lift out more . A major red light that I noticed on the Spyder is that the seed tubes are mounted behind the axle of the disc . This slides the seed down the back half of the disc instead of the front half. This actually causes the seed to ride on the surface tension of the up-side of the disc exiting the soil, instead of using the down side of the disc to “ press “ the seed into the ground tightly between the punch point of the two discs on each opener.( possibly the slanted undercut design of KHarts will compensate to some degree this problem- haven’t seen it in the field to know for sure.) Lastly, my biggest concern for my farm anyway with the design of the Spyder drill is the fact that the mid row bander discs , can only be put on the very front rank . To me this is totally undesirable for my ground and to be used when the seed discs are on 7.5 inch spacing . To my way of thinking, your seed discs should be the first to see the dirt- undisturbed , virgin soil. In our sticky soils , even the Salford disc would pick up enough soil and fling it sideways , to try and plug up the seed discs, if the mid row fertilizer is in front of everything else. I actually know of two farmers that set their drills up with the mid rows up front , and they are not happy with the penetration of their Salford drill , especially if it’s a wet spring. There is nothing more frustrating than seed discs that build up with mud on the sides of the discs , and stop turning . In our wet , sticky soils , this is also why we installed air filled packer wheels to our drill . There is still enough real estate moving in a wet year to bring the whole drill to a stop with semi pneumatic packers. Anyway, this post is way too long , especially for a new members first post. Hope I haven’t rubbed anybody the wrong way . I still think that the Spyder is shaping up to be a hell of a no till drill. I’m just not sure I’m ready to make the transition to it- - - yet!
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Post by slipclutch on Apr 2, 2023 16:30:36 GMT -6
Thanks for the info. Now what’s your thoughts on the case DS disc? I’m looking at this one too.
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Post by shmiffy on Apr 3, 2023 1:38:29 GMT -6
If I had mid rows. They would be up front. 7.5 spacing the midrows would slide the top layer of dirt right over the seed row. I’ve seen that with 7.5” spacing without midrows.
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Post by kenmb on Apr 3, 2023 8:40:32 GMT -6
A general comment because this scenario comes up often when people start talking drills. Too each their own, we all make decisions in some form or other.
People will react based on what they think a drill will do, what they see it doing, or based on the results. Which means they will/won't buy based on their views, or they will buy/keep/sell based on infield use at seeding, or they will keep/sell based on what happens when the combine rolls.
I have yet to hear of a drill work in every condition that can be experienced at seeding yet guys will make a decision as if such a thing exists. There are trade offs and so it comes down to which trade off is the most beneficial.
Too shmiffys point, I remember a guy on a forum beating on a Pillar because their demo showed it didn't work. He said the back row of openers "burried" the front row so they wrote it off as an option. I asked him how did the crop turn out, interesting enough there was no comment. A guy who based decisions on thoughts and not on actual results. As I say, people do that stuff. Kind of like "if it looks good it must work good". Shinny and new must work better than old and beat up. My Pillar is on 10" spacing, and yes, the back row will slide loose "dirt" over the front row. Should be a disaster for my flax and mustard when there is maybe 2" of extra "dirt" over the seed. Yeah, but it's not actually dirt because real dirt does not slide 6" over. Straw, chaff, and very light soil that moves along with the straw does indeed move over. But that loose stuff is very different than 2" of actual hard packed dirt over a 1" deep seed in a packed trench.
What is the actual result of the front row being burried by the back row? Well none. The crop still comes up. Sure, there is often a few days difference at emergence but I can guarantee that at spraying time no one will ever be able to point out the front from the back row and most likely at 10 days after emergence no one will know.
Of course this is all based on my land. I see guys say that four days difference in emergence is a deal breaker because they need that emergence to be dead on across a field for their fungicide timing. My land is in no way remotely ever going to attain that requirement. Just seeding through a low spot to a hill will introduce 7 days delay or longer in comparison of crop timing.
I used to pay attention to what guys were saying about drills and what works and doesn't work. Sure, there are no doubt some bad designs for a certain area, but generally doesn't mean that design won't work very well in another area. Now I just decide what is working ok for me right here, and I can't really knock what I am using. Maybe there is better, maybe something will look prettier 4 days after the first shoots come up, but I have seen much worse in my area with guys throwing around hundreds of thousands more to do it.
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