powerwagon
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Post by powerwagon on Sept 17, 2020 22:40:10 GMT -6
I don’t see it I’m using the mobile version maybe it’s not on here just desktop?
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Post by Beerwiser on Sept 17, 2020 23:09:44 GMT -6
Hmmm, seems you are right Powerwagon. I am on mobile too, but use the desktop version that you can pick near the bottom of the page. When I switch to mobile version it is gone. Have to see what is going on.
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powerwagon
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Post by powerwagon on Sept 17, 2020 23:15:50 GMT -6
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powerwagon
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Post by powerwagon on Sept 17, 2020 23:16:59 GMT -6
Ok thanks it worked when I switch to desktop so that is the solenoid under the dash
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Post by kenmb on Sept 18, 2020 7:30:19 GMT -6
It's pretty rare to see any 12v system operating at 14.4v. That is actually the high end. For example, if running at 14.9v you have to think something is wrong with voltage regulator because overcharging batteries is bad long term also. 13.6 to 13.8 v is pretty typical. Check battery with engine off and then start it up, anytime I see a bump up in voltage then I know the things are working to some extent. If I read 13.1v then i know something is a little off and start digging into things more.
AB will likely get the drawings. I expect that relay acts as your "run" relay. When you turn key to run or start that relay will be energized to power up a bunch of stuff. You can't run 40 amps of load through a key switch so you drive a relay with key switch. Alternator will be connected directly to batteries and starter so will operate independently of that relay I would expect. That relay may be sticking and in need of replacement. Taking a few seconds to change state is a good indication of that.
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Post by Albertabuck on Sept 18, 2020 9:00:27 GMT -6
Hopefully you can make out enough of what you need from these, I really need to get a new phone lol, have to use my front camera and its so hard to get enough light that you can read the dam things. Also, 14 volts is considered normal operating voltage when the alternator is functioning, while going thrun the manual actually saw where Versatile even stated so right in the book. Thats pretty much industry standard. Also, that relay for the cab accessories is a continuous duty one, they do fail at times, should be at least 100 amp rating. If you install a intermitten use one, like for example the starter relay, the windings will burn out in a short time. I always use Cole Hersee and keep a couple of these around as they are used in many different apps. I can get the part number if you want.     |
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powerwagon
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Post by powerwagon on Sept 18, 2020 13:19:56 GMT -6
Ok thanks I may need to replace that continuous duty relay think it’s getting slow. Thanks for the drawings they should help now and in the future. It is charging 13.8v where the alternator meets the starter and battery cables so should be good. The guage in the cab just shows low only 11volts but I’ll just keep watching and checking it. Thanks
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Post by kenmb on Sept 19, 2020 8:25:12 GMT -6
Looking at sheet 2 of 3:
Power comes in from hot source at starter solenoid to that 4 terminal strip orientated horizontally on drawing. The key switch is tapped into there and feeds power to the other 4 terminal strip orientated vertically, fuses 1 and 3 tap off there. The voltmeter taps off there too. So key switch essentially feeds power to voltmeter among other things. Start checking at that vertical terminal strip.
That other relay/solenoid called "environmental relay" is for cab fans and such so a secondary issue. You will know if that isn't working.
I see there is a "charge relay" which denergizes the field to the alternator to prevent alternator from trying to charge when cranking engine (it is switched from one of the small terminals on the engine start relay). So it is working now. I assume it is energized when engine is cranked, de-energized at all other times so not likely a problem. But then I am making an assumption.
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