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Post by Oatking on May 14, 2023 9:19:19 GMT -6
Hey guys , problem with most highway tractors are they are built light for van trailers on highways .
I was having a problem with my international 9400 eagle getting hot.
Have you guys replaced your highway tractors on the farm with a better radiator ?
I just replaced this rad three years ago with a factor spec rad and it’s no better than the original.
Roads are crazy soft here! Half loads on tandem.
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Post by kevlar on May 14, 2023 9:34:20 GMT -6
Are you sure your fan is working properly? Thermostat? A tandem shouldn’t need a heavy duty rad. What year of truck, newer trucks run hotter than they used to. If it is the rad causing the problem, you need one with more fins, not more flow.
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Post by Oatking on May 14, 2023 10:21:12 GMT -6
New rad and fan clutch installed recently. Hired man driving so ….,,,. He stopped the truck at 220
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Post by meskie on May 14, 2023 10:29:58 GMT -6
Make sure fan is on all the time. And the rad is clean. For ag service a rad with less fins is better as it doesn’t get plugged as easy.
Only time we have a truck getting warm is when the rad isn’t clean. And we have pulled big loads down soft roads without trouble.
If it is a standard truck make sure the hired guy is using lots of rpm. Lugging the engine will cause excessive heat. Even an auto shift you should be able to lock it in a gear. If your under 1500rpm it’s too low.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on May 14, 2023 11:53:28 GMT -6
I replaced my shutter stat, thermostats, took rad in for rodding out, guy blew it apart when cleaning it, so replaced core, over $2500, 20 years ago.
Turned out it was the sending unit was defective, $28.
1978 White Freightliner, Cummins.
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Post by garyfunk on May 14, 2023 12:29:13 GMT -6
Could be the belt tensioner, worn pulleys or the belt itself.
Hey, OD, at least you figured it out before it cost you a pile of $$$, ha.
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Post by kenmb on May 19, 2023 7:24:34 GMT -6
Had my IH 7400 act up 2 days ago. Normally would hit 195-200f in harvest with load then come down to around 185. Made a trip for fertilizer and hauling 2/3 load home and climbed to a bit over 210. Then heard fan go to full engagement (air clutch) which quickly brought it down to 200f then fan cut out again. This was 2 miles from home so shut it off at home. Yesterday was back to running normal. The air clutch solenoid is working, when I pull the electrical plug on the air clutch solenoid it puts the fan at full engagement. Guessing it was the thermostat sticking but it was odd the fan cut in late and out early. Maybe that is the normal fan setting, don't know, something to watch. Never seen temp go past 200 and it was only 20 deg C that day so something acted up.
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Post by meskie on May 19, 2023 7:56:11 GMT -6
Is your coolant low? That sounds like the symptoms when coolant is low.
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Post by kenmb on May 20, 2023 7:17:55 GMT -6
Reservoir is full, level went up noticeably vs cold level when I opened hood with engine temp showing around 190f so everything looks right there.
It acted up again yesterday coming back with another 2/3 load (12 mt) down highway. It's a 4 mile run from elevator to field so not much work out for the engine. Temp went up to 205 on gauge so I turned on the air conditioning and that kicks in the engine fan. Cooled down right away. So I have an issue with the controller not engaging the fan. If I can over ride fan control by turning on the AC then I will get into it after seeding is done. Need to find right schematics. Must be multiple temperature sensors because the dash display seems correct. I can't even find the temperature sensor on the engine, so much crap on there to sort out what is what.
Could be the body controller - I think that is the correct term. Everything feeds into it and it acts like a plc putting out various commands. Turning on the AC feeds into the body controller which sends signal out to turn on fan. So for whatever reason that works but engine temperature inpute isn't doing it although dash gauge works.
Could be coincidental that fan cut in right when I turned on AC though too. Other day truck ran fine temperature wise.
Another project with this truck it seems. By far the most hours I spend working on equipment goes towards this truck.
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Post by Oatking on May 20, 2023 17:23:02 GMT -6
Year of rad failures for me . On my 2009 kenworth both the transmission rad and fuel rad starting leaking. Lucky I caught the transmission rad (cooler) with only a liter of antifreeze in the the tranny because I miss diagnosed that problem thinking my leaking fuel rad was the tranny rad. My mechanic shop said most guys never know the trans cooler is leaking until too late. Those coolers are hard to get at right under the cab.
I never knew trucks had fuel radiators. My fuel rad was leaking enough that my truck was not starting well or idling poorly.
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Post by kenmb on May 21, 2023 7:06:21 GMT -6
Fuel radiator is something I was not aware of either.
I will have to blow out that ih radiator like Meskie says. I did clean it out since buying the truck so was either last harvest or harvest before. Wasn't running hot, did it just because.
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Post by meskie on May 21, 2023 7:13:40 GMT -6
Truck rads are hard to clean out. They get dust in them and then get wet and it cakes in rad. On our freightliners we take the air to air off that’s in front of the rad to get good access to blow it out good or wash it out if it’s really bad.
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Post by Oatking on May 21, 2023 8:15:17 GMT -6
Fuel radiator is something I was not aware of either. I will have to blow out that ih radiator like Meskie says. I did clean it out since buying the truck so was either last harvest or harvest before. Wasn't running hot, did it just because. When I combine oats I always leave my trucks running at high idle between loads. I hate shutting an engine off when your in a hurry to get to the other truck and if I did shut them off I don’t have the time needed to let them idle down , so leave them on . I park out of wind but it still gets dusty from cart operator . I run 4 trucks maybe 5 this year because I am the only truck driver and have a class 1. I know it’s sounds excessive , but I like being in control of unloading into bins and to keep up to two combines that is what I need especially if I am on a 10 mile round trip on soft roads . When canola or beans roll around , I am down to two semi s and that is when the excessive trucks laying around the yard are like ornaments !!! Nature of the business ! I read the fuel rad is an option on one fuel tank trucks to keep the fuel rail pressure from heating up to high and causing injector damage . |
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Post by kenmb on May 23, 2023 7:10:03 GMT -6
Cleaned ih yesterday but haven't driven it. Lots of small stuff was blown out. A quick look earlier and didn't see any big stuff or bridging so figured it was clean. But yes, truck rads have small openings and layers of radiators so they probably get plugged differently than a tractor or combine. I did haul some wheat since harvest and probably had some chaff roll over hood and get sucked into rad while loading. As I say, it was good at harvest but not good now. Hoping that blowing out the small stuff a guy can't see is what fixes it.
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Post by kenmb on May 24, 2023 6:49:48 GMT -6
Didn't run over 190f yesterday so likely a good rad cleaning is the solution. Will give it a little more attention when seeding is done. Probably rig up some screen material for front. The old KW never had this problem, goes years with out needing a clean out. The shutters likely a big factor as well as just the engine radiator in front and nothing else so much easier to see if there is any plugging/bridging.
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