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Post by Oatking on Apr 14, 2023 12:27:26 GMT -6
What kind of oil additives do you guys like to add to your diesel and gas engines. Some people think making the oil stickier to stick to your engine parts will give longer lasting engines. Do new engines need this compared to the older engines. I am no expert mechanic so I was hoping to go by any experience you guys have!
So many products out there claim they help engines but I never know if its worth it or if it will indeed help my engine.
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Post by garyfunk on Apr 14, 2023 12:56:52 GMT -6
Question: How many engines have failed on you? Engine manufacturers specify oil quality requirements and change intervals. All oils have their specs written on the container. If the oil meets the manufacturer's requirements you should be good 👍 🙂.
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Post by kevlar on Apr 14, 2023 14:20:09 GMT -6
Engines and hydraulic systems can run for 10’s of thousands of hours with oils off the shelf, is it really worth the risk of adding something to the oil that might actually cause a problem? It would be different if oils were removing additives like diesel did with sulfur and causing premature wear, but as far as I know they aren’t.
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Post by meskie on Apr 14, 2023 14:29:22 GMT -6
Never added anything to any oil before. If oil meets the spec for that engine. Shouldn’t need anything else. I think of the additives like the snake oils for the crop that promise they will help.
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Post by Oatking on Apr 14, 2023 15:49:24 GMT -6
In the 26 years of farming on my own I had two , one was a 76 case 1070 at 7000 hrs , had it rebuilt for 8 grand , my 2015 Pete 579 . My 680 is not done yet hopefully it can be saved . I never use additives and my combines are always green lighted . Not sure what caused my paccar to pile up on my Pete. Always follow the requirements . Maybe just bad luck.
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Post by meskie on Apr 14, 2023 16:13:47 GMT -6
Those case engines were only designed run for 5000 hours so I wouldn’t be concerned about doing it at 7000. Unless you owned that truck since new you never know what the previous owner did to it. The newer motors aren’t uncommon to need a rebuild either.
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Post by kevlar on Apr 14, 2023 16:47:38 GMT -6
Sounds more like bad luck to me. I can’t say I’ve ever heard of an engine failure because of the oil. Usually caused by something smaller that goes unnoticed for a period of time until it causes a major failure. Everything eventually wears out, crank bearings get more slop in them than they should have causing vibrations that cause other problems and so on.
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Post by garyfunk on Apr 14, 2023 18:50:18 GMT -6
Ya, did a couple 1070s too. One was putting exhaust in coolant at 6500 hrs, so $1900 later it had a fully rebuilt motor. The other siezed some of the mains, started knocking bad, so $1900 later plus a refurbished crank and it was good to go. Gotta remember those old case hours were actually revolution hrs not clock hrs so probably closer to 10,000 if you take the idling into consideration.
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Post by hillbillyreefer on Apr 14, 2023 19:44:37 GMT -6
Check out “Project Farm” on YouTube he does lots of experiments with oil additives.
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Post by northernfarmer on Apr 14, 2023 19:54:03 GMT -6
I would be very cautious in adding additives to oil, yes there are some additives out there that are designed to have a purpose such as GM cam and lifter additive for the older flat tappet cams as newer oils are marginal for having enough zinc so that is one example. However there are so many snake oils out there and its hard to know what has a proper purpose and what ones are just being flogged to make money at the cost of harming the engine. For instance and am going on information from years back with products like Power Up that claimed big things and they contained PTFE which is Teflon. So it was said in one example that a Hutterite colony had used it in some diesel engines and they had bearings go out and I don't know the amount of carnage that was done but I doubt it would have been pretty. This was after I had heard about that and had gone to an oil seminar that a rep from Petro Canada had put on at the College in Fairview and while he may have some bias because of working for a particular oil company, his stance was that by and large oils are designed to be used as they are formulated and not to be thinking that something needs to be added after the fact. Also it was him who claimed that the teflon in an engine application would break down over time due to the environment in an engine and turn into something along the lines of sulphuric acid and eat the bearing coatings. He also pointed to oil thickeners or oils that they put that paratac or similar idea of a substance into which coat the gears so nicely on the little hand crank demo of the gears inside of a clear plastic display you will see at trade shows and I've mentioned this before. He said that while lubrication is part of an oils job, its also its job to wash away contaminants as well as carry heat away from the gears in a transmission or differential. He claimed that what will happen is that the stickiness of that product will cause wear metals to stay put on the gear teeth and turn into a grinding compound to wear at the gears rather then a normal gear oil that will wash down the gears constantly taking away the wear metals ( and hopefully stick to the magnet or be caught in a filter ) . Also the tacky thick oil would give an almost blanket type effect in insulating the gears from cooling properly so end up heating up the gears and destroying them. Obviously if there are syncro units, that will be bad news with an additive that would alter the characteristics of the oil, just like the EP additive in GL5 gear oil causes damage to the syncro units in some transmissions.
Be vary wary of these miracle oil additives that claim the world and are flogged at trade shows and they have their friction test stand and so on, and some are sold like Amway on a pyramid scheme type sales structure.
That is why I tend to lean to full synthetics, the higher heat they can withstand before breaking down prematurely, and to lubricate critical components on startup in cold weather, be that the engine, trans diffs etc.
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Post by northernfarmer on Apr 14, 2023 20:00:43 GMT -6
Check out “Project Farm” on YouTube he does lots of experiments with oil additives.
That is definitely true although as per the friction machine, that is said to be a false test procedure as a properly engineered piece of equipment does not have that type of friction occur. However there are a variety of tests he does such as rust prevention, rusty bolt release torque, cold oil flow and so on so there is lots of value he creates. By the way that friction machine, I was told by that same oil tech speaker that apparently head and shoulders shampoo works wonders on that machine.
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tsipp
Junior Member
Spring valley, Saskatchewan
Posts: 98 Likes: 64
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Post by tsipp on Apr 14, 2023 20:43:32 GMT -6
It’s amazing how many people don’t understand that and can’t even fathom it when you explain it slowly. my quote didn’t take.
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tsipp
Junior Member
Spring valley, Saskatchewan
Posts: 98 Likes: 64
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Post by tsipp on Apr 14, 2023 20:45:14 GMT -6
Ya, did a couple 1070s too. One was putting exhaust in coolant at 6500 hrs, so $1900 later it had a fully rebuilt motor. The other siezed some of the mains, started knocking bad, so $1900 later plus a refurbished crank and it was good to go. Gotta remember those old case hours were actually revolution hrs not clock hrs so probably closer to 10,000 if you take the idling into consideration. It’s amazing how many people don’t understand that and still don’t believe you when you explain it slowly.
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Post by kevlar on Apr 14, 2023 21:59:30 GMT -6
Were there other tractors like that? I thought I remembered hearing that earlier Deere’s were like that as well?
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tsipp
Junior Member
Spring valley, Saskatchewan
Posts: 98 Likes: 64
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Post by tsipp on Apr 15, 2023 6:18:25 GMT -6
Were there other tractors like that? I thought I remembered hearing that earlier Deere’s were like that as well? Every thing was, PTO speed for an hour put an hour on the hour meter, half speed for two hours put an hour on the hour meter.
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