CTS2
Junior Member
Posts: 74
Likes: 27
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Post by CTS2 on Feb 19, 2023 3:50:44 GMT -6
The see-saw linkage under the cab just before the master cylinder had seized up, causing the brake to not fully release sometimes. I pulled it apart, cleaned it up, and refitted. Now it all moves perfectly.
But, now the brake pedal needs to be pumped a couple of times to get the brakes to work. I've bled the system several times, and don't seem to be getting any more air out of it. No fluid leaks that I've seen.
Park brake is working fine.
Are the Versatile 9X8X brakes notorious for being difficult to bleed? Or do I coincidentally have a different problem not related to fixing the seized linkage pivot?
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Post by kevlar on Feb 19, 2023 8:11:03 GMT -6
We’ve done the brakes on both our 9680 and 9880 and if I remember correctly it took quite a bit of bleeding to get them right. Are you bleeding both bleed screws? Did you have the caliper apart ? The self adjusting mechanism is prone to seizing up, I think on both our tractors we had to replace one side of the caliper. One turns one way and the other is reverse threads. If those are seized up to might be giving you issues.
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Post by Oatking on Feb 19, 2023 8:24:21 GMT -6
CTS, its the same problem I have on my 1990 946 tractor. It took awhile to get the air out of the system to get them working. Its a lot of pumping the brake and than going underneath the cab and having someone pump until oil comes pouring out and than topping up the brake fluid reservoir . I left mine overnight and all of a sudden it was fine the next day. Air must have work itself out.
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Post by kevlar on Feb 19, 2023 8:36:50 GMT -6
Forgot to mention, it’s a two man job. Pump them up, hold the pressure, crack a bleed screw and drain oil/air, tighten and repeat on both screws until it’s good. The bleed screws of course have the hole pointing up so they will likely be plugged and rusted so won’t work like they should, I think we had one that still worked where you could put a 1/4 inch hose from it into a pail to catch the oil, the rest had to run down the side and make a mess.
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Post by kevlar on Feb 19, 2023 9:36:28 GMT -6
Oh, and one more thing. Don’t forget to keep topping up the reservoir, it runs out faster than you think. Then it gets a gulp of air and you’re right back at square one. I know of a guy that did that. 😬
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Post by northernfarmer on Feb 19, 2023 10:39:55 GMT -6
This topic reminds me of the clutch linkage issues I had with our older Steiger, trying to get the system bled which I believe was successful but the problem was the master cylinder, put a new kit in after honing it and that didn't last very long, bought a new master cylinder and that didn't last long either. Also did have brake caliper issues as the caliper dragged wearing out the pads and was the mechanical mechanism I believe that was sticking but never had issues with the hydraulic aspect of that system. The term oil is being used, is this system on this vintage of tractor using oil and not brake fluid ?.
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Post by hardrockacres on Feb 22, 2023 8:27:49 GMT -6
I have found it is easier on those older versatiles and steigers to bleed them backwards - push fluid from the caliper back up to the master. Takes less time and is a 1 man job then.
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Post by kevlar on Feb 22, 2023 8:45:23 GMT -6
I have found it is easier on those older versatiles and steigers to bleed them backwards - push fluid from the caliper back up to the master. Takes less time and is a 1 man job then. I’ve never heard of that. Do you just hook a pump up to the bleed screw, I would assume? |
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Post by hardrockacres on Feb 22, 2023 12:29:37 GMT -6
yes and push the air up...the way it naturally wants to go..
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CTS2
Junior Member
Posts: 74
Likes: 27
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Post by CTS2 on Apr 10, 2023 4:17:32 GMT -6
Are you bleeding both bleed screws? No I wasn't. I didn't realise there was another bleed screw around the back side of the caliper. Now I've bled it properly and it seems that everything is working great. So - thankyou! |
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