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Post by Oatking on Mar 8, 2024 22:40:02 GMT -6
A little off topic , however I can’t believe the surge in used highway tractors for sale or at auction ! The RB auction in st Agathe had quite the line up of company trucks for auction . Even load line in winkler has quite a few . Man never thought I would see a two hundred thousand dollar used tandem at load line ! Seems like used trucks a plenty now . Lots of trucks advertised on kijiji for a month or more now. Before they wouldn’t last a week. Prices keep getting reduced and still not selling. Not sure who would spend 200g on a tandem truck. Could buy a pretty nice truck and set of b trains for that money. I was thinking the exact same thing . Two weeks ago I snagged a 95 Loadline super b . Yeah I know nothing fancy or good looking , but it was farmer owned aluminum trailer and it was relatively cheap . It’s a spring ride unit which does me fine with the bulk of my crop in oats . I put it into action last week and man was I happy with it . You feel a lot less tired with fewer trips a day to the elevator but get more in. Quick question , if my oat crop looks good this year I might add another semi to pull this b. Would a d13 with an 13 speed be enough to pull 60 000 kg unit ? No hills here . |
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Post by meskie on Mar 8, 2024 22:52:24 GMT -6
Seats are firm but they do break in and got a bit softer over time. I preferred the older seats in my 2016 over the new ones. My dad had a 2013 1/2 ton with leather and those seats were some of my favourite beside the mid 90s Chevy seats. Had the engine light coming on and off on my new duramax. Took it in and the egr valve is bad. At least parts are easier to get now. It was a 3 week wait for NOx sensors a couple years ago. Parts guy said he used to keep at least one in stock.
I get the idea that there is so little thickness to the cushions, they sure are not like my brothers older Ford super duty with the "real" leather seats. I am purely speculating that they go slim on the seats for not only the cost savings but the roof height and my head is so close to hitting the roof, not the only vehicle I've had that problem with though LOL.
I can guess that if you had a choice and could delete the engine at a sane price and not loose any warranty and no issues down the road in reselling the unit ( trading it in ) to a dealer, you would seriously consider it. The guy I talked to today with 80000 km put on in one year, he had zero issues with the engine system surprisingly but said that a friend of his with the same unit type is having various emissions issues and he felt it was because that guy idles his truck for hours on end all the time and a good chance that had quite a bearing on it.
Ive had more trouble with this truck in 6000km then my other 4 duramaxs combined. Most people i know that have trouble with the emissions tend to idle them for long periods of time or don’t park them inside. Doesn’t even need to be heated just inside keeps them that much warmer. |
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Post by meskie on Mar 8, 2024 22:55:23 GMT -6
A D13 and 13 speed would be enough to pull a super B. You don’t need the 15l engines and 600hp like lots of people think. Lots of welfare wagons get pulled with the 60 series detroits around here. One custom guy had a fleet of them with the 430/470 detroits and 13 speeds.
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Post by kevlar on Mar 9, 2024 7:39:11 GMT -6
A lot of the people with the high horse trucks also have to replace driveshafts and diffs but they don’t know why 🙄
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Post by northernfarmer on Mar 9, 2024 8:56:45 GMT -6
Kevlar, you don't happen to know any specific examples of units, for example what spec diff size and ratio, and drive shaft spec ( more so the size of ujoint that matched up to the shafts ). Trying to lift the load of a super b on a surface that is at all soft is asking an awful lot of a truck as its tough enough with just a typical tandem axle trailer in fields on a damp fall.
Admittedly having had nothing personal to do with a D13, just the fact your not planning on setting the world on fire and climbing grades loaded should make an engine that size viable although yes less torque get the load rolling. In my mind what would be more important is the rest of the driveline, the 13 speed has two downfalls as its missing that one lower gear ratio that the 18 speed has ( it has the same top gear ratio though as the 18 speed ) and the other issue is no ability to split the high range gears and that is where one needs the splits even more when dragging such a load. Then the drive shaft specs and the diffs, if the diffs have a fast ratio that puts a lot more force on the drive shaft where as a good low geared diffs ( higher ratio ) shifts more of the ultimate stress to the diffs in a sense and if they are the weaker diffs they fail.
I've mentioned in the past about one example being a farmer in the area some years back that had a truck with 40's and somewhere in the 3.70 area of a diff ratio. One of the issues was the splines on the drive axles/diffs on the side gears was stripping off and the end result was having to swap out reman third member diffs a few times, and then he was wearing out his clutch as the truck was struggling to lift the load so abusing the clutch to get rolling. I guess what I am pointing out is that he was forcing a truck that was never meant to do the job he was asking of it and it told him so in no uncertain terms LOL. The thing is this farmer was doing the repairs himself on the truck, had the fancy trans/diff jack so he was saving a lot in repair labour but was still spending and repairing on a unit he knew full well was not correct for what he was trying to do with it. I know, its tough to find just the right truck, the more plentiful and affordable trucks tend to be geared high and spec'd with lighter drivelines.
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Post by Oatking on Mar 9, 2024 9:48:16 GMT -6
I need a bit of help diagnosing a problem on my 2015 579 peterbilt.
I think it’s a clutch problem.
So when I am downshifting and coming to a stop from the 5 th gear , as soon as I push the clutch in I hear a clunk or like a gear or like the drive shaft is loose.
Any idea what it could be . Shifts great with out clutching but as soon as I push on clutch I hear that clunking sound.
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Post by kevlar on Mar 9, 2024 9:54:36 GMT -6
No I don’t, but pretty sure dumping the clutch and flooring it usually has something to do with it.
Used to have a Freightliner with a M11 Celect 370-410, with 411 rears, it handled a tridem well, I’d say every bit as good as our Mack 480 with higher gearing, and used less fuel. Thousands of those Detroit’s pulled supers for billions of miles across Canada. I remember guys pulling supers with 350 Cats and Cummins, it all depends what you are expecting from it.
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Post by kevlar on Mar 9, 2024 9:58:07 GMT -6
Does it just do it in 5th gear? Not pushing the clutch too far and engaging the clutch break?
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Post by northernfarmer on Mar 9, 2024 10:05:39 GMT -6
No I don’t, but pretty sure dumping the clutch and flooring it usually has something to do with it. Yup, dumping the clutch or adding throttle and dumping the clutch, that would have magical properties all right ... poof, BIG REPAIR BILL  |
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Post by northernfarmer on Mar 9, 2024 10:17:09 GMT -6
Like Kevlar asked, if its specific to the transmission being in that particular gear or if it will do it in numerous lower gears or any gears high or low range for that matter, or if you are coasting along slow and slip it out of gear all together and then press the clutch pedal. Is the jake on or the engine otherwise slowing down the truck when this happens or will it happen even with the engine almost at an idle, or put another way very little in the way of feedback from the engine into the driveline. When it makes this sound, is it a single event or more than one clunk. Will it do it when your driving the truck bobtail as well.
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Post by meskie on Mar 9, 2024 10:17:15 GMT -6
If I’m pulling trains I would want a 3.90 rear diff or lower with a smaller engine. Our one truck has 4.56 gears with a 470 Detroit and it will pull anything and is nice for crawling around the yard.
Yes the one down fall of the 13 speed is it doesn’t have as low of a reverse gear either. If it’s just a highway truck (yard to terminal) you can get away with a lighter speced truck. It’s all about the driver in the seat. There are guys who can manage to tear apart a heavy speced truck and the other guy who can do the same thing with a lighter spec and not wreck a thing.
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Post by meskie on Mar 9, 2024 10:18:01 GMT -6
I need a bit of help diagnosing a problem on my 2015 579 peterbilt. I think it’s a clutch problem. So when I am downshifting and coming to a stop from the 5 th gear , as soon as I push the clutch in I hear a clunk or like a gear or like the drive shaft is loose. Any idea what it could be . Shifts great with out clutching but as soon as I push on clutch I hear that clunking sound. Check all the u joints |
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Post by northernfarmer on Mar 9, 2024 10:34:32 GMT -6
If I’m pulling trains I would want a 3.90 rear diff or lower with a smaller engine. Our one truck has 4.56 gears with a 470 Detroit and it will pull anything and is nice for crawling around the yard. Yes the one down fall of the 13 speed is it doesn’t have as low of a reverse gear either. If it’s just a highway truck (yard to terminal) you can get away with a lighter speced truck. It’s all about the driver in the seat. There are guys who can manage to tear apart a heavy speced truck and the other guy who can do the same thing with a lighter spec and not wreck a thing. One neighbour has a truck with what he thinks is 4.56 ( bought used and no info to be found on it ) with 46's and it works very well for a very overloaded tridem in soft fields and yes an 18 speed. Right, the 13 speed also lacks the same reverse ratio that the 18 speed has and that all makes the difference when doing a lot of moves in loading or unloading a truck to clutch wear. But there are drivers who have idiotic mindsets and will not use the lowest gear in manoeuvring and or lifting the load to get going .. the tools were there to use but they were bull headed in how they drive and the wear or breakage shows it. |
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Post by northernfarmer on Mar 9, 2024 13:10:26 GMT -6
Definitely a good practice to go through them all every so often to feel for anything in the slightest off as well as feel for side play on the slip joints, and side or end play on the input/output yokes of the diffs and the transmission. Sometimes it can be a yoke that its internal splines start wearing and feel a side play and think its the trans or diff bearings ( or it is the trans or diff bearings ! ). Since you have a noise, that would be one of the things to go through and don't forget to feel the steady bearing and rubber assembly to for bearing issues or a pounded out rubber assembly. |
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MBRfarms
Junior Member
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Post by MBRfarms on Mar 11, 2024 13:15:02 GMT -6
We run a Mack with 500hp D13/MP8 engine and 18 speed in our tandem and pull a pup for winter grossing up to 45t. Driveline handles it no problem, not the fastest truck out there but beats any older farm truck or cheap company rig. Was a super-b spec truck when we bought to put the box on. Not sure on the exact ratio but 100kmh is just over 1600rpm which works nice, this lower gearing makes a big difference no matter the engine/hp. Drop the emissions junk, put the 505hp tune in and it would pull just fine with good gearing.
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