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Post by iamwill on Jul 10, 2022 11:44:06 GMT -6
Last year I bought an R62 to harvest dry beans. We put in the steep pitch helical bars and slowed down the clean grain elevator it also has an original style Sunnybrook rotor in it. The results were far from stellar. It worked okay in the pintos but the northerns were very difficult to harvest. The biggest problem was rotor rumble, it just had no capacity. Could do 1.2 to 1.5 mph pulling in 30 feet of windrowed beans. This resulted in way too much seed damage, like 10 percent plus dockage. Increasing rotor speed helped some with capacity but also increased damage. Rotor loss was also an issue it wasn't terrible but was still more than normal. I am wondering if there is just not enough room for the crop mat between the bars on the Sunnybrook. We did pull the rotor and weld on some homemade sweeps and they didn't seem to do much, maybe smoothened it out a bit. They were just made of mild steel and after 400 acres of dirt and rocks and beans they had almost nothing for wear on them so they can't be doing much. One other problem we encountered was beans packing in the unloader swivel. We extended the fighting on both the cross auger and the unloading auger as far as we could and that helped some but not enough. We double checked the timing to make sure that was not the issue. The transition area would actually start getting warm while unloading due to the pressure and friction and we would have to clean it out every couple hoppers to keep it from plugging and even then ended up opening the access doors and using the conveyor more than once to unload. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Post by shmiffy on Jul 10, 2022 14:31:59 GMT -6
Only way to fix the unloader is upgrade to the 14 auger. It’s straight thru. Your unloader was not thought out well. Why did they go from 10” fighting down to 4” then the bushing then 4” back up to 10”. The 14 elbow has no reduction. Turns a lot easier, less belt problems too
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Post by iamwill on Sept 12, 2022 18:37:54 GMT -6
Made some mods to the cross and unloading augers, will see if it helps. Now the big problem, pulled the rotor out (old style sunnybrook) and the steep pitch channel helicals are completely shot right where the treshing ends and the separation begins. They only have 420 acres on them. Any ideas?
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Post by shmiffy on Sept 12, 2022 21:52:12 GMT -6
Are they chrome
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Post by iamwill on Sept 13, 2022 7:43:06 GMT -6
Yes they are chrome. One was almost worn in half.
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Post by shmiffy on Sept 13, 2022 9:19:27 GMT -6
What are the rub bars like. Must have been a bad chrome job. I would think it would be impossible to wear that out in 4000 acres let alone 420
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Post by iamwill on Sept 13, 2022 14:20:25 GMT -6
The rub bars are also worn-out. The most wear being in the same spot the helicals are shot. The separator bars are fine but on the threshing end they start at about 60% and go down to almost nothing at the transition area of the cage. I don't think it's a bad chrome job or the wear should be more uniform, I think material is just going round and round in that area for some reason. That would also explain the lack of capacity and excessive rotor rumble, I just don't know what the reason is. To top it off no rub bars are available for the original Sunnybrook rotor, how convenient.
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bap
Junior Member
Posts: 61
Likes: 28
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Post by bap on Oct 26, 2022 12:18:59 GMT -6
There is a mod in the transition area welding in some kind of angled steel and adding a short helical in the transition area...I remember before I bought gleaners after combing the forums it made alot of sense and was preparing to do this if I ever got one.
As luck would have it the two we got already had it done among pretty much every other mod you could do to them. I have never had the pleasure of operating a gleaner without these extra modifications and from what I have read over time perhaps they could be a pain at times without them.
After running for a few years now I am very impressed and to my thinking the best mods would be this transition mod and the feeder house mods...I realize it is a pain to have to do anything to mod a combine however if you like them and plan on keeping them it may be something to consider. Lots of old info floating around in various places and I think some videos maybe too.
One of mine has the original synnybrook and I will be looking into rub bars shortly however I may be able to squeeze another season...If I find anything out I will say about getting rub bars. Not sure what I am going to do yet until I pull the rotor and likely wont now until 2023 if I make it that long.
Also never harvested beans so I guess I am not qualified so maybe these mods are moot in beans...but after going through some tough conditions in small grains even with all the mods if you are going to plug it...it is still usually in this transition area, unless you get lucky and plug the feeder. Under normal conditions however I think the mod to this area is a good thing and definately helps the transition area.
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bap
Junior Member
Posts: 61
Likes: 28
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Post by bap on Oct 26, 2022 12:32:27 GMT -6
He...a bit off topic however I was trying out a fairly freshly acquired 2388 that I have wanted for a while and it has the 3 speed rotor gearbox, I had the brilliant Idea to try canola one night in low and caught a tough spot...almost flipped the combine on its side.
Little differrent from a gleaner...when i catch a tough one they almost flip over forewards...he...
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Post by iamwill on Oct 28, 2022 17:01:40 GMT -6
We did cover the corner of the feeder house and add a short helical to help with the transition. Also made some sweeps and welded them to the rotor in the transition area. Seemed to help somewhat but I think the biggest issue is the lack of aggressive rub bars. Will dig into it this winter. The mods I made to the unloading auger worked great, didn't plug it a single time so that was time well spent.
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Post by iamwill on Jan 8, 2024 11:37:54 GMT -6
So I ended up putting in a bison rotor and it works great. Now I am looking for an old concave and separator grate to modify. Anyone have something in their scrap pile? Can be completely worn out as long as they aren't bent/broken beyond repair.
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