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Post by Albertabuck on Dec 30, 2021 20:00:10 GMT -6
Been thinking about this to try and keep my brain from freezing in this weather😡. What if you run it at full throttle with the rad cap off. Once you get heat to the core top off the rad and cap it up. Might help purge any air. Actually Beer it usually takes a bit of pressure to get things moving when there is an air lock. Most often what I suggest to people when they call is in winter is get in a field where its half asses smooth in deep snow or some other kind of load, and kick it up into one of the higher gears and wind her out and go, get it hot. And its the pressure when it gets hot that actually makes it circulate. Now that is with the older stuff with the core up in the roof. You suggestion could work on one where things were lower. Once things are purged, the most common two things that lead to a loss of circulation and return of air lock, is either a leak, usually at the core itself or the highest point, or a leaking head gasket. Of course there are others, but less prevalent.
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Post by farmshop on Dec 30, 2021 20:08:43 GMT -6
They make pumps for this application. Transit buses use them to circulate to the different heaters
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Post by farmshop on Dec 30, 2021 20:15:33 GMT -6
Dultmeier sales has these pumps. 342 is dollars not sure about shipping to Canada though. Their website shows them so maybe you could find a closer source
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radar
Junior Member
Posts: 62 Likes: 34
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Post by radar on Dec 31, 2021 10:10:32 GMT -6
We used the extra pump on the 66 pass school buses ,needed to push the coolant to the back of the bus in the cold weather ,,if the bus engine wasn't tarped in and not drove hard the pump easy cooled the engine down 20-30 degrees.. those pumps worked great for that .
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Post by meskie on Dec 31, 2021 10:41:52 GMT -6
The heater hoses are for sure hooked up the right way? Heater core tubes are cleaned out? Or is there any other spots to hook the hoses up that might work better? I remember you asking about this problem before and can’t recall all the specifics.
A auxiliary heater might work but if you can’t get coolant flow now it might not help anything. A diesel fired cab heater could work but likely more then you want to spend on it.
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Post by kevlar on Dec 31, 2021 11:03:11 GMT -6
Core is clean. Even with both hoses disconnected at the core, coolant won’t pump up to it. It used to work when we first got the tractor. Might price out a water pump, might be just as cheap to try that,.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Dec 31, 2021 12:53:51 GMT -6
We used the extra pump on the 66 pass school buses ,needed to push the coolant to the back of the bus in the cold weather ,,if the bus engine wasn't tarped in and not drove hard the pump easy cooled the engine down 20-30 degrees.. those pumps worked great for that . Years ago my school bus driver told us if he was running both front and rear heaters the engine would never get to full temp and the thermostats wouldn't open in this kind of cold weather. Shows how old I am, we never had a day that was too cold to go to school, only if he got stuck did we get a snow day! Also we dressed like we were prepared to walk in the weather if the bus broke down or we had to abandon ship and walk to the nearest house, which was rare but not unheard of, but cell phones did not exist either. Come to think of it there were a lot more kids and farm yards then as well, rarely more than a mile between houses!
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iamwill
Full Member
Posts: 247 Likes: 165
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Post by iamwill on Dec 31, 2021 18:12:26 GMT -6
This may be a dumb question but are you sure there is no restriction or kink in the new hose? Replaced a hose on our old 8010 allis a few years ago and had the same issue. It turned out to be a kink in the hose where it was bent the opposite direction to the way it was curled on the roll. Twisted the hose around and the problem was fixed.
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Post by OptimallyDismal on Dec 31, 2021 18:32:10 GMT -6
Also wondered about whether the hoses are clear, just because they are new doesn't mean they are good, they could have a defect that is a restriction?
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