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Post by torriem on Oct 3, 2021 16:27:19 GMT -6
hooked a power line with his new Nitro and it was a write off. I've always thought those Miller mono-tube booms are a problem waiting to happen the way they unfold over the top like that. All sprayer booms require vigilance when operating near power lines of course. But I much prefer the booms that fold forward or backward as I feel they are way safer. Most of the time I'm not sure I could ever touch a power line with my Patriot's booms, although I still make a point of keeping a safe distance.
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ltk
Junior Member
Posts: 80 Likes: 98
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Post by ltk on Oct 3, 2021 17:40:35 GMT -6
hooked a power line with his new Nitro and it was a write off. I've always thought those Miller mono-tube booms are a problem waiting to happen the way they unfold over the top like that. All sprayer booms require vigilance when operating near power lines of course. But I much prefer the booms that fold forward or backward as I feel they are way safer. Most of the time I'm not sure I could ever touch a power line with my Patriot's booms, although I still make a point of keeping a safe distance. When I hooked the power line I still had the factory Deere booms that unfold on about a 45 degree angle up and out.That is exactly how they were able to contact the line. Of course it happened because I was distracted and not watching the right boom. My K&S booms unfold straight back so, like you said, pretty much impossible to hook a line.
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Post by Albertabuck on Oct 3, 2021 20:13:16 GMT -6
Also since we got into talking about seating beads on tubless tires, thought of this earlier, another dangerous mistake many make, and that is to over pressurize a tire to force it on to the beads. This can not only damage the actual tire, but can create a dangerous and explosive situation as well. Its why on almost all tires it is stated, never exceed 35 PSI while seating beads.
With tube type tires, often it can be the tube pinched between the bead and rim causing issues. This happens when you get careless.
If a bead won't seat, there is a reason. Most often its due to them being dry or rusted/dirty. Don't force it if it won't seat, break it completely loose again and see why its happening and correct the situation. Most often its a lack of lubrication. A high concentration of dishsoap and water is sufficient for most automotive ones, but for larger there is no substitute for the Murphy tire soap. Murphy's comes in a three gallon pail, it does deteriorate over time and especially if the lid is not sealed correctly it will actually evaporate. If you don't do a lot, get something like a good coffee can with a screw on lid and get a can full from your local tire shop. As it ages it gets more liquid, which still works good as lube, but not quite as helpful in sealing beads as when it is thick. But most times a well lubed bead will seat very easily.
Also, always lube both the bead of the tire and the bead on the rim. Yep it can get messy, but it cleans up easy. I keep an old towel at my tire machine to wipe my hands with. Often I also will wear a pair of them rubber coated work gloves, then when you all done, hands still nice and clean. Tires are so dirty to work on. But a squirt of agent Orange takes care of that anyway lol.
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Post by badaltitude on Oct 4, 2021 21:27:52 GMT -6
Got to say this business of welding or heating a tire causing a catastrophic failure is news to me. Was just heating up some stubborn wheel nuts this summer after twisting of the first one. Luckily though it was a Daton wheel on an old fuel tanker so the heat would go somewhat to the wedge and spacer. Just one of those lessons thankfully I didn't have to learn the hard way.
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Post by northernfarmer on Oct 5, 2021 13:39:37 GMT -6
That really is a good question as to how to handle a lug nut that is frozen on and will twist or otherwise ruin the stud as it is so tempting to heat such a nut and yet could result in a very bad end result. A neighbour showed me what he did, used a grinder on the side of the lug nut to grind it away to the point of just starting to see threads appear and said that allowed him to spin it off and save the stud in one case but another one he had to grind into the side of the stud but at least could spin the nut off and then pulled the hub to replace any damaged studs.
Not that this video is about that but it shows in slow motion what zippering is, when a tire was run low and damaged the side wall due to flex and then the source of the original leak is repaired and the tire is inflated. That is why when I have brought a truck tire to a shop and I am not 100% sure it did not go flat in the process of being driven on ( example, finding a flat tire months after a grain trailer was last used, was it just starting to leak when It was parked or was it half flat and I never happened to notice ) that I tell them so they can not only inspect it well on the inside but to be very cautious when they inflate it to listen for the popping sounds. I believe in some cases they can see a deteriorated area on the inside surface of the sidewall and also see an amount of fine tire rubber flakes on the inside that indicate all is not well with the tire and its no longer fit to use. I know I don't want to leave the tire shop with a bomb in the back of my pickup or that they slapped back on the truck or trailer.
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