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Post by kenmb on Dec 4, 2020 17:45:25 GMT -6
It's a diesel, giving the old girl some TLC and going to check/adjust valve clearance. I have come across some info but not a procedure specific to a 4020, figured it would be easy to find. Guess not.
It will be done cold and looks like 0.018" is commonly mentioned for intake and exhaust. Not always.
I did find a diagram showing a two position method. Set to #1 tdc and set a number of valves noted, then turn crank 360 deg and set the others. The few times I have done this kind of work I would go with putting each cylinder in compression then adjust the two valves. Takes more time but always felt more comfortable doing it this way.
Just curious if there is some words of wisdom someone like AB can offer from experience before I go do it.
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Post by Albertabuck on Dec 4, 2020 18:40:42 GMT -6
Ken, need serial number or rough idea of age. I think the early ones were slightly different over the late. Side console is 1969 sn201xxx and up, anything without side console should be same from the beginning to end of '68
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Post by kenmb on Dec 5, 2020 8:53:43 GMT -6
Ok. It's SN 172,9xx so the earlier one and has the hydraulics on dash.
Just curious what guys normally do for setting procedure. Like mentioned, there is the two position method. It must work fine since it is documented, just curious if it is the preferred method or not. I don't mind turning the crank over a bunch of times if it makes the job more accurate. Got the front apart putting in a new front crank seal and water pump so access is easy to wrench it over.
I see valve clearance specs of anywhere from 0.015 to 0.023 (exhaust).
Speaking of crazy parts prices, the water pump pulley has a pretty well worn belt groove so figure I will replace that. $315 ish for a basically a tin pulley. I think the damper is $275 ish which isn't crazy.
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Post by Albertabuck on Dec 6, 2020 10:23:31 GMT -6
You actually roll it over at the flywheel thru the timing window on the right hand side of the flywheel housing. The mating mark is on the housing. A large screwdriver or such works, I use a small prybar myself, you can actually ratchet them over fairly quick once you get the rhythm down, exact same idea as adjusting hydraulic brakes on a truck, just be sure to go the direction of rotation. Clean the flywheel at the TDC mark so it is easy to see and mark it with chalk. This can be done while it is running if you are careful with a small wire brush with a wooden handle, least then if something happens you won't break anything or yourself either. Don't use anything that will catch in the teeth of the ring gear. I also mark the flywheel several degrees ahead of TDC so you know its coming and don't go past as you can not back things up to line up the marks without backing up a fair bit first. If done correctly you only need to roll it over once after initial position. Start with #1 on TDC and roll it over one revolution and its now #6. Sounds like you have the adjustment sequence, the op manuals always had that in them back then. It is .018 on both vales.
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Post by kenmb on Dec 6, 2020 11:19:32 GMT -6
Ok, the procedure with the two positions must work fine otherwise it wouldn't be published. It's easy enough to turn over with a ratchet on the damper bolt so been doing that.
Will aim for 0.018". Did an initial setting yesterday and found an intake valve at 0.055 and another at 0.027 so that should solve my ticking. The exhaust clearances were all rather tight at around 011". Also found a bolt a little loose that secures the rocker shaft. So it was due for some attention.
Will run through it once more using the 2 position method for my own curiosity and call it good.
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