|
|
Post by Beerwiser on Dec 13, 2021 20:05:50 GMT -6
|
|
jvdl
New Member
Posts: 46
Likes: 13
|
Post by jvdl on Dec 13, 2021 21:20:39 GMT -6
That roller looks good, would be interested in creating a custom ultra row rate roller for canola if it will stand up, I don’t know a thing about 3-d printing other than the fact it exists. |
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Dec 13, 2021 21:25:00 GMT -6
There's computer illiterate, computer retarded, then there's me! This would be waaaaayyyyy over my ability.
|
|
|
|
Post by torriem on Dec 13, 2021 22:11:15 GMT -6
The hard part about 3D printing is the 3D modelling. That is a serious learning curve. But it's not too much different than how many of us already think when it comes to building something in the shop. Combine shapes (welding), cut out bits, drill holes, etc. Just in abstract on a computer screen. But requires a lot more patience. A lot of beginners get started using a very simple on-line CAD system, tinkercad.
As to the operation of a 3D printer, it's not beyond any of your abilities. If you already have a part designed by someone (perhaps downloaded from the thingiverse web site), the most complicated bit is loading it into the slicer program which prepares the part for printing. It's just a matter of saving the sliced file onto the memory card, insert it in the printer and hit go. If you can maintain a tractor you can figure out a 3D printer. I know of several people nearby that are not tech savy at all that have a lot of fun with a 3D printer printing knick-knacks for their kids, grandkids or family members mainly. If you can load welding wire into a MIG, you can get plastic loaded into a printer! :)
A couple of farmers with no previous experience have bought printers and are printing parts that another farmer designed to do DIY autosteer with AOG using a motor geared to the steering wheel.
|
|
|
|
Post by torriem on Dec 13, 2021 22:16:22 GMT -6
Pretty interesting. I think that is plastic infused with metal particles so you can print with a somewhat conventional printer. Then take the part, put it in a kiln, and the plastic burns off and the metals fuse together. Price will come down over time. One thing that intrigues me is using 3D-printed PLA to make molds for casting aluminum. Or even lost-PLA where the part is printed, coated with a special ceramic, then the PLA is burned/melted out, leaving a perfect mold to pour into. All kinds of things to have fun doing when we're not farming or sleeping: |
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Dec 13, 2021 22:34:36 GMT -6
That bolt blows my mind! I want one!
|
|
|
|
Post by torriem on Dec 13, 2021 22:43:56 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by Beerwiser on Dec 14, 2021 22:22:18 GMT -6
The hard part about 3D printing is the 3D modelling. That is a serious learning curve. But it's not too much different than how many of us already think when it comes to building something in the shop. Combine shapes (welding), cut out bits, drill holes, etc. Just in abstract on a computer screen. But requires a lot more patience. A lot of beginners get started using a very simple on-line CAD system, tinkercad. As to the operation of a 3D printer, it's not beyond any of your abilities. If you already have a part designed by someone (perhaps downloaded from the thingiverse web site), the most complicated bit is loading it into the slicer program which prepares the part for printing. It's just a matter of saving the sliced file onto the memory card, insert it in the printer and hit go. If you can maintain a tractor you can figure out a 3D printer. I know of several people nearby that are not tech savy at all that have a lot of fun with a 3D printer printing knick-knacks for their kids, grandkids or family members mainly. If you can load welding wire into a MIG, you can get plastic loaded into a printer!  A couple of farmers with no previous experience have bought printers and are printing parts that another farmer designed to do DIY autosteer with AOG using a motor geared to the steering wheel. Well said Torriem. If anyone who is interested in 3D printing has worked on a 90s' or new equipment you can surely deal with this. And on the plus side there is a ton of information on every problem you may encounter. Hell, there are even step by step build videos where you can watch the guy go through every single thing including tightening bolts(good to watch if you can't sleep). Too bad the ag industry wasn't like that. |
|
|
|
Post by Beerwiser on Dec 14, 2021 22:35:55 GMT -6
Torriem, not sure if you seen the Voron open source printers. Amazingly fast and very tempting to build the 2.0. A quick video doing the "benchy" speed test. For those that don't know, the benchy is a little tug boat that has a bunch of geometry in it to test a 3D printers ability. Last one I did was 3 hours or so. vorondesign.com/ |
|
|
|
Post by kevlar on Dec 14, 2021 22:50:57 GMT -6
I don't know what's more impressive, the 3D printing itself, or the speed at which the printer could move! The only time I've seen something move that fast around here was because it was out of balance.
I'm almost tempted to go buy one now, if anything to prove you guys wrong when you say anyone can do it! I need a new computer first though, this one is getting hard to see the screen now with all the WhiteOut on it! lol
|
|
bigal
Junior Member
Posts: 63
Likes: 42
|
Post by bigal on Dec 15, 2021 19:12:28 GMT -6
The rollers in my drill are made of a hard rubber. The closest thing to that that can be 3d printed is TPU. If I had a printer capable of printing TPU I would certainly give it a try. I am tempted to make up a roller out of PETG and see how it works. PETG is quite rigid, but might hold up. Probably would need to play with infill densities. I think PETG would work fine for a fine or medium meter segment. Not sure how it would hold up to fertilizer. Actually that 3D printed segment in the picture sure looks like PETG to me. I bet it would take 6-8 hours to print that. That's the downside to 3D printing. But if you were experimenting with a new meter design, this would be a good way to test it. 3D printing tends to be quite strong in the direction of the layers, but between the layers it's not nearly as strong as a molded part. So if you could 3D print the same plastic as a molded part, the 3D printed part would be nearly as strong. There are several technologies for 3d printing metals, including laser sintering of powder. There are probably hundreds of companies trying out different methods of 3D printing plastics, wood, composites, and metals. It's pretty interesting to see. You do have a tpu capable printer. You'll need to upgrade the extruder to one that has a better constrained filament path(there are some good 3d printable drop in upgrades on thingiverse. Probably a good idea to upgrade to capricon bowden tubing too. Ender 3s are definitely capable of tpu, you just gotta print slow. |
|
|
|
Post by Beerwiser on Dec 15, 2021 19:33:18 GMT -6
Have you tried tpu with a bowden bigal? I have a roll but have yet to try it with the bowden.
|
|
|
|
Post by torriem on Dec 15, 2021 23:40:58 GMT -6
You do have a tpu capable printer. You'll need to upgrade the extruder to one that has a better constrained filament path(there are some good 3d printable drop in upgrades on thingiverse. Probably a good idea to upgrade to capricon bowden tubing too. Ender 3s are definitely capable of tpu, you just gotta print slow. Yes that is true. But currently I don't have any of the extruder upgrades or modifications. hence my printer is not currently capable of it. I have replaced the bowden tube with a capricorn tube. But I haven't done anything about the clearance between the extruder gear and the entrance to the tube. I do want to try it some time though. I have successfully printed with PETG, but I have a glass bed which is scratched up, so I'm pretty sure the PETG would stick to it badly. So far I've used painters tape. But I think I'd like to get ahold of a sheet of garolite for my bed. That's supposed to be the best for PETG. Or maybe a flexible metal bed sheet. As for upgrades in general, I'm making a list of things to try. It's quite a rabbit hole, including replacing the main board with a 32-bit processor, alternate firmwares, Octoprint, extruders including direct drive, A/C bed heater, enclosure for ABS, etc. For a long time I was using Cura as my slicer, but lately I've been using Super Slicer which I really like. However Cura recently introduced a new type of support for efficiently making hollow objects with minimal supports (branching off of walls, etc). Looks awesome. I'm sure others will copy that, but I'm tempted to go back to Cura again. |
|
bigal
Junior Member
Posts: 63
Likes: 42
|
Post by bigal on Dec 16, 2021 0:14:52 GMT -6
Have you tried tpu with a bowden bigal? I have a roll but have yet to try it with the bowden. Yes, I have. It works quite well. I first did it with a 3d printed extuder as I mentioned earlier, now I have a dual gear extruder that works well too. I generally print tpu at 12-15mm/sec. On another note, I use the wham bam build surface on my printers. Best surface I have used yet, but I only print pla and tpu. Petg might stick too well to it. |
|
|
|
Post by bob123 on Apr 22, 2022 15:23:36 GMT -6
 Just finished my first cad design, the air filter clip for a combine. Not available to be purchased seperately of course as new holland wants you to buy the whole filter housing for $1150. Will hopefully get it printing tonight |
|
