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Post by meskie on Jul 28, 2021 19:49:18 GMT -6
Same with power, 300 range be lots. . A 3406 B block with the screws turned to 475 is lots. 300 horsepower is adequate.
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Post by kenmb on Jul 28, 2021 21:11:11 GMT -6
Good point about those old GM tandems/tag axles AB. They used to carry 550bu without issue so really any decent sized tandem would be fine. I am thinking a lower HP is fine with the Allison for reasons TorrieM mentioned. I should have a decent starting point to look at.
There are some nice looking units out there, but to haul grain around a field and get full of dust inside I think a basic plane Jane unit would serve me just fine. One thing this farm has never had yet is a grain truck with air conditioning so any truck with that would be fully equipped in my mind.
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Post by Albertabuck on Jul 28, 2021 21:34:24 GMT -6
Same with power, 300 range be lots. . A 3406 B block with the screws turned to 475 is lots. 300 horsepower is adequate. You gotta remember I'm old school lol, I first run AB with a 250 Cummins in a '69 White. Back in the day that was still acceptable. Many upgraded by putting a turbo on, kick it up to a whopping 290 lol. When started pulling super b in 89 got a sweet '86 Star with 444 Cummins, most power on the hyway at that time save for the KTA! So yea for me, 300 still a fair number of ponies
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Post by meskie on Jul 28, 2021 21:52:18 GMT -6
Our one tandem has a 6V92 in it with 330hp that works pretty decent but not much for torque in it. Our LTL 9000 Ford has the 3406B with the screws turned so it was a big upgrade for power.
The couple trucks we had in our shop last winter were set at 350hp.... or they were when they left and the owner said they had lots of power with the Allison auto. One was a peterbilt and one was an international. Nothing fancy about either but the peterbilt was far nicer to work on and drive.
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Post by torriem on Jul 28, 2021 22:39:08 GMT -6
Definitely get the air conditioning!
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Post by slipclutch on Jul 29, 2021 5:26:33 GMT -6
525hp Redtop 14L Cummings 18 speed. Now that’s power! But be careful it’s not a car!
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Post by hardrockacres on Jul 29, 2021 6:47:29 GMT -6
I have a meritor 13 speed autoshift in one of my tandems. I just run it in manual mode then I decide when it shifts. I like how it upshifts but not the down shifting when in the auto mode. But for my wife or daughters to move around for me they use auto and it works fine for them. And then I get some help when I need it as none of them like the trucks with a stick. It has 500 hp...way more than what is ever needed with a straight truck in my mind. but it can get you moving along quickly even when loaded if you want to.
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Post by kenmb on Jul 29, 2021 17:02:05 GMT -6
I will take a couple for a drive when I get some time. I am curious to see how these automated shift trucks work and the Allison.
How do you guys decide on a truck? Is it based on knowing the guy selling, or because it's close, how it looks, or just price?
A couple I have in mind to look at: In Regina there is a 2013 International Prostar 18 speed auto shift, should be 15l Cummins, 381,000 km = $78,000 In Humboldt 2004 International Durastar (medium duty), Allison, 280 hp, Alison, 271,000 km $78,000 Regina private seller 2003 Freight liner 4400 medium duty, Alison, DT466 330 hp 183,000 km $70,000
The first one seems like the best value if buying a truck by the pound. I might put 5000km a year on one so I can't see me running in to much in regards to mechanical issues at those km's.
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Post by Albertabuck on Jul 29, 2021 18:56:11 GMT -6
It would take a long time to really answer that question Ken, least for myself. But then I know a lot about trucks so I have a definite advantage. I've not only sought out trucks for my own use, I have speced and ordered them for fleets I was involved with as well. But as I mentioned earlier, I'm old school, the KISS principle applies heavily in my thinking. Simple and tough over chrome, paint and style. I have sat back reading different threads on the old forum about farmers so concerned about every little spec with a truck just to use it for a few thousand miles a year on the farm and it makes me shake my head. They spend more time specing a truck than a tractor or combine, well which matters more? Yes some things are important, but many aren't a big deal in the long run. Power, suspension and type of gearing(as in transmission, ratios and things like lock ups) most important, but things like ratios aren't carved in stone, neither is number or type of gear box either. Another one would be if you want something pre emission or not as well. Limited use trucks and most modern emission systems often lead to trouble. They don't like to sit. And most importantly, it has to be something you like and want to drive. And all too often ego steps in but I don't think that be an issue with you, nor is it with me, I have absolutely no issue at all driving a Cornbinder and that should show my ego isn't bigger than my bank account either lol
If you don't know what to look for or how to pick what will work best, ask someone you know to look at a few with you, show you what to look for and more, or even help you pick something out.
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Post by torriem on Jul 29, 2021 20:12:44 GMT -6
The 2004 and 2003 won't have DEF or DPF on them. Just a bit of EGR is all. That's a point in their favor. Not sure if it's a good one or not. Like AB said, though, modern emissions systems are designed to operate under loaded, continuous work. Farm driving isn't conducive to that. My cousin has a couple of nice Volvo trucks but constantly having problems with the particulate filter. Doesn't drive the truck continuously enough to do the proper regen, and then once it has problems it won't do a regen even if you try to force it. The only solution seems to be to delete the system.
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Post by kenmb on Jul 29, 2021 22:17:21 GMT -6
I find it pretty difficult to figure out how a guy picks a truck so any feedback is good.
Emissions delete seems a logical thing. It would not concern me at all to do that. I think my KW gets about 700 miles a year and a 100 hours. If I had a newer truck I would be more inclined to haul some grain to Regina for instance (50 miles one way). As it is now I contract most of it and it goes FOB farm or I have some local guys haul and pay $4000-$5000 a year for trucking. Not a big expense compared to buying a different truck. But if I can get family to help more at harvest and make seeding go smoother and logistically better then there is that to think on.
Shopping for farm equipment is not so bad. But a truck, where my needs are to haul 600bu, have air conditioning, and auto shifting leaves a pretty wide field of options. And many things I don't know to look for.
But perhaps a low km truck makes sense. I don't mind putting money into something I am going to run a long time but at 2000 to 5000 km a year, if I put $25,000 of repairs into a truck then my operating cost per km goes out of line. With lower km shouldn't have too many concerns.
There could be an opportunity to rent out a mechanic at a truck shop in Regina for an hour or two to look over a truck with me. I suspect that happens quite a bit so I should probably make a couple phone calls with that in mind.
Lots to think about.
Talked to FCC and can get 4.1% financing on a loan so that ain't bad. One of the questions they asked is if I had smoked tobacco products in the last 12 months. I thought that was odd, though I can understand the reason - but that's for the covid thread someday.
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Post by northernfarmer on Jul 29, 2021 22:35:07 GMT -6
I was going to mention that about having an independent mechanic look over a truck that knows his stuff, find a truck that you like and then have it looked at. Not that a mechanic is going to magically figure out everything as that is impossible but he may find some alarming issues that say stay away and so a few dollars spent could save you a lot in the long run. Also wanted to comment on one item AB mentioned about suspension as not all truck suspensions were designed to have a top heavy body mounted load on them and so its something you would have to double check with a dealership or someone who knows their stuff to inform you if its a good suspension or not that is under the truck for that type of use. Of course rubber block is but the ride ... well probably not so good but I am referring to the variety of air ride suspensions that tend to be on a large percentage of trucks these days vs the leaf springs for the tandem set.
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Post by meskie on Jul 30, 2021 7:16:04 GMT -6
I would also say that getting a mechanic to look it over before you buy is a good idea. There can be a lot of variation of what condition a truck is in even if it has passed a safety. I would also recommend getting your truck safetied every year or two to keep up on the maintenance. The DOT also seem to bother you less if there is a current safety sticker on the side window.
If your hauling 50 miles with a tandem it could be a time consuming thing as you won’t get 600bu legally on your truck. Maybe they don’t bother guys around you as much but I seem to get stopped every time they are out on the highway. Or get pulled to the side at the scales for an inspection. (I’ve never gotten a ticket though).
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Post by kenmb on Jul 30, 2021 8:07:56 GMT -6
Suspension is something that is on my list of unknowns. The KW is a rubber block walking beam so nothing to know there, other than it was a lot of work for me to pull one side apart to take into city to get new bushings pressed in. Think I will remember that job for a while. I would expect that with air ride an auto dump is necessary, as I understand it, the bags are emptied once PTO is engaged to make the truck more stable when lifting box. Just my assumption, never been around one but see this mentioned now and then. But don't know if it is a necessity or just nice to have.
Legal load is a good point I hadn't thought of. While I do know I am good for 23450kg or something like that I am usually around 25-26,000 kg at local elevator so probably shouldn't do that if hauling further distances. The idea of a pup trailer crossed my mind a few times. They are not terribly expensive. Something that could be added later if even just hauling from fields. May not be worth my time to haul to city even with trailer but could be useful around home. Don't know. But keeping the option open might be nice.
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Post by meskie on Jul 30, 2021 8:20:16 GMT -6
It’s not the total weight that is a problem. It’s getting the weight in the right spots. It’s really hard to not overload the front axle on a straight truck that’s why you see a few trucks with the wider front tires.
Still would be handy to have a decent truck around for you to haul out odds and ends if you need.
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