|
|
Post by northernfarmer on Nov 22, 2020 19:33:46 GMT -6
All our equipment has LED lighting. For the most part we have swapped out the original lights with similar wattage LED. We've also managed to find really good LED insert bulbs too so everything looks nice and tidy. Slapping a giant light bar on the roof is pretty quick and easy but then your old halogen lights will look really pathetic! Were some of these lights the par 36 and 46 round style rubber housings and a new sealed beam installed into that housing or are you strictly speaking of non sealed lights with the actual bulb being replaced. |
|
|
|
Post by Albertabuck on Nov 22, 2020 20:48:49 GMT -6
Years back when I used the 6030 for lots of pto work with the duals off, I added a pair of halogen lights at about floor level of the cab shinning out at an angle and towards the ground, actually got the idea from the IH 86 series which had lights in that area, didn't really so much light up further out front, but took away all the shadows and dark area beside the tractor and really lite things up to side going forward which was what I wanted for both combining and picking bales as back then I used it on my big bale wagon as well. Forgot to mention earlier, I also hooked the relay for them into the high beam circuit, that way I can turn them off for road travel when you meet someone or don't want them on. Maybe I'm too much old school, but IMO a few properly placed individual lights allow you to direct the light to where you need it and not create shadows or glare. Each to his own though, I'm not raining on your parade at all! Found this, be about the best pic I got to show how I set them up...  |
|
jaymo
Full Member
Posts: 202
Likes: 89
|
Post by jaymo on Nov 23, 2020 9:15:40 GMT -6
All our equipment has LED lighting. For the most part we have swapped out the original lights with similar wattage LED. We've also managed to find really good LED insert bulbs too so everything looks nice and tidy. Slapping a giant light bar on the roof is pretty quick and easy but then your old halogen lights will look really pathetic! Were some of these lights the par 36 and 46 round style rubber housings and a new sealed beam installed into that housing or are you strictly speaking of non sealed lights with the actual bulb being replaced. No, the bolt on, individual, round or rectangular lights we just replaced entirely with a similar LED unit. It's the non sealed, automotive style light housings that we replaced the bulb with LED version. |
|
|
|
Post by northernfarmer on Nov 23, 2020 12:41:37 GMT -6
Ok, I was curious as I have seen a few units that in theory are supposed to replace the sealed bulb in a round light but I have to question their output because there is no way a more powerful light could cool slid into a rubber housing like the cast aluminum or metal housings with fins on the back of the decent LED fully assembled units.
What brand or model of bulb is it that you have been using as there is so much out on the market and some have fans that can crap out and you know how it is, so much stuff coming in from China and its hard to know what is good and what is total garbage.
|
|
|
|
Post by meskie on Nov 23, 2020 12:51:48 GMT -6
I would avoid any light with a fan on it. Too much vibration and dust in farm use to make them last.
|
|
|
|
Post by northernfarmer on Nov 23, 2020 13:38:14 GMT -6
That has been my concern as well and why I haven't experimented with them other then on a pickup and those do have a fan. The problem I was seeing at the time I bought this set was that non fan ones had a huge rear end that would not fit in more confined spaces like a headlight bucket.
|
|
|
|
Post by torriem on Nov 23, 2020 13:44:25 GMT -6
I've used a few LED bulb replacements that had woven heat sink strips hanging out the back. Those have worked pretty well for me on a tractor with no moving parts. For example, www.amazon.ca/TURBOSII-Conversion-Replacement-Highlander-Chevroelt/dp/B01EZS8DZQ but I used 9005-style. Unfortunately I cannot find any 9005-style units on Amazon that are fanless. Probably because most car headlights can't work with them (not enough room for the braided heat sink). Keep in mind that parabolic light housings are designed for point light sources like a halogen or xenon bulb. These LED bulb replacements work okay but the housing surely is not shaped correctly for them. The LED replacement bulbs I've used are certainly bright enough, and use less watts than halogen. But Xenon HID bulbs are definitely brighter. |
|
|
|
Post by bob123 on Nov 23, 2020 20:40:30 GMT -6
I have added a 50" light bar and 12 4-6" pods to my combine. I tried a few different brands and I like auxbeam the best of the cheaper brands. You'll have to buy expensive leds to not get radio interference though. I just mounted the light bar 8" back from the front of the roof so it doesnt glare off the feeder dust as much. Like a projector cutoff upside down
|
|
daryl672
Full Member
...
Posts: 114
Likes: 121
|
Post by daryl672 on Nov 23, 2020 23:46:14 GMT -6
Good idea about moving the light bar back Bob, that would probably work for keeping the glare off the tractor hood down too. Thanks! It's also encouraging to hear you were able to add all those lights and have no problems with the alternator getting overloaded. Sounds like I'll probably have a problem with the radio though.... oh well, I can live with that
|
|
|
|
Post by bob123 on Nov 24, 2020 19:53:25 GMT -6
I did unplug 4 halogens I think to reduce the draw and the 2 big lower ones on a cr I never bother to turn on because you can barely tell that they are on with all those leds running. I dont know if I really am drawing that many more amps then factory doing it that way. I rarely listen to music in the combine but if I do with the lights on I just stream off my phone as that is unaffected
|
|
|
|
Post by northernfarmer on Nov 24, 2020 20:29:01 GMT -6
Bob, that definitely would make a huge difference getting rid of some factory lights ( or not turning them on ) , just guessing if they were 50 watt lights that would be 25 amps or so and if they were up to 60 watts that would be 30 amps deleted for the LED lights you installed. I googled lights on a JD 7720 and saw a thread from Ag talk from 10 years ago which means Halogen 55w replacements for the incandescent lights and added a few more halogen lights with even higher wattage. I know a lot of those incandescents only drew about 35 watts and the comment was that his alternator crapped out right after that so he installed an alternator that he thought was around 125 amps and then it worked great. Just something to plan ahead for with older equipment if it has a small output alternator which may not be all that healthy either.
|
|
|
|
Post by bob123 on Nov 24, 2020 22:11:00 GMT -6
Yeah it probably wouldnt be a bad idea to do some quick math on amps you are adding and get rid of or replace some halogens with led to not increase total draw too much. And like I said you can hardly tell the old lights are on anyway if you get bright enough leds
|
|
crtoney
New Member
Farming, Ranching and Fixing Kitty Litter SK
Posts: 10 Likes: 13 
|
Post by crtoney on Mar 26, 2021 6:45:23 GMT -6
I’m not a fan of light bars. I have one on the front to my sprayer but that’s it. I’d rather have factory style lights. On my old 4240&4450 I have square style LEDs lights though. 4 out back and 2 on the fenders. Loaders on both. Work extremely well.
|
|
